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In Memory of Fletcher Pitts of Coral Bay, St. John

A memorial service will be held for local0 sailor/educator Fletcher Pitts on Saturday, January 1, 2005 at 11 A.M. on Johnson’s Bay Beach in Coral Bay, St. John. He died of heart failure on Christmas Day at the Schneider Hospital. He was 51 years old.

He was born in Monterey, California in 1953 and made his living as a shipwright. His hobbies were yacht racing, marlinspike seamanship and orchids. He was an active member of the Coral Bay Yacht Club.

He is survived by his wife and long term sailing partner Robin Clair Pitts, father Charles Robert Pitts (Senior), and brother Charles Robert Pitts (Junior).

Profile: Jason Fletcher, Grenada Marine

A long time live-aboard and member of the USVI marine community, Pitts headed up the Coral Bay Kids-and-the-Sea (KATS) program for many years. Rotary II of St. Thomas awarded him its prestigious Paul Harris award for his educational efforts on behalf of local youths.

Crucian Native Tim Pitts Introduces VX One Class to Caribbean

In 1996 his beloved 1924 schooner Liberty won the overall prize (Wayfarer Cup) at the Antigua Classics.

In matters of international yacht race judging he was mentored by St. Thomas attorney Henry Menin.

Fletcher Pitts sailed into Coral Bay on Christmas day, 1987 and said, “…this is home, Robin!”

…he sailed out again exactly 17 years later.

Caribbean’s Pitts and Figueroa – Hernandez at Athens Summer Olympics

Tsunamis in the Caribbean

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A tsunami is an ocean wave or series of waves caused by a large-scale disturbance of the ocean floor or surface that abruptly displaces a large mass of water. Tsunamis may be caused by earthquakes, volcanic events, landslides into the sea or impact of stellar objects such as asteroids, comets and meteorites. This article focuses primarily on tsunamis generated by earthquakes and volcanic events. While it is possible for the region to be hit by a tsunami such as the one recently experienced in Asia, scientists currently believe that there is a very low probability of this phenomenon occurring in the Caribbean.

In the past 500 years there have been at least ten earthquake-generated tsunamis in the entire Caribbean which have been reported and verified. Four of these have led to deaths. In total about 350 people in the Caribbean have been killed by these events. These tsunamis occurred as a result of earthquakes in:

  • May 1842, Haiti – An intense local tsunami was believed to have killed up to 200 people in the town of Port-de-Paix. This figure is highly uncertain since total casualties caused by the earthquake were more than 7,000.
  • November 1867, Virgin Islands – Death toll about 20, all in the Virgin Islands
  • October 1918 Puerto Rico – Death toll about 29 in Puerto Rico
  • August 1946 , Dominican Republic – An intense local tsunami which mainly affected the town of Matanzas where up to 100 people were killed

Additional earthquake-generated tsunamis of note also occurred in 1843 affecting Guadeloupe and Antigua and in 1690 in St. Kitts Nevis. The number of casualties related to these tsunamis, if any, is uncertain. In July 2003, a major dome collapse from the Soufriere Hills Volcano in Montserrat caused a tsunami that was experienced in Guadeloupe at about 1m high and in some parts of Montserrat at 4m in amplitude.

Potentially, there are two groups of earthquakes which may generate tsunamis in the Caribbean. These are (1) Earthquakes occurring within the region which may generate local tsunamis (by local we mean that only nearby islands are affected).In the past 500 years there have been approximately 50 potentially tsunamigenic local earthquakes but only 10-20% of these earthquakes actually generated tsunamis that caused significant inundation.(2) Distant earthquakes occurring outside of the region may generate tele-tsunamis.

In November 1755, a major earthquake in the Azores fracture zone near Portugal resulted in a tele-tsunami which crossed the Atlantic and was noticed throughout the eastern Caribbean from Barbados to Antigua and as far west as Cuba. This earthquake is commonly referred to as the Great Lisbon Earthquake. The amplitude of the tsunami in all islands was about 2-3 metres and waves continued to arrive for many hours. No damage or casualties were reported. European sources also reported that the Azores fracture zone generated a second tele-tsunami in March 1761 but no local confirmed observations were made in the Caribbean.

While recent events in Asia have caused much concern over the Caribbean’s vulnerability to tsunamis, it is important to note that all oceans can experience tsunamis but there are more large, destructive tsunamis in the Pacific Ocean because of the many major earthquakes along the margins of the Pacific Ocean and also because dip-slip earthquakes (which involve vertical rather than lateral ground motion) are more common in the Pacific than elsewhere. As a result of the immediacy of the tsunami hazard to countries in the Pacific, there is currently a tsunami early warning system in that region.

There is no tsunami warning system in the Caribbean where the recurrence rate is approximately: 1 destructive tsunami per century for local earthquakes and 1 destructive tsunami per 200 years for distant earthquakes.

It should be noted that these recurrence rates are small but not negligible. For comparison, earthquake engineers design buildings to withstand earthquakes with a recurrence period of once in 475 years.

The first sign of an approaching tsunami is usually a significant retreat of the sea.

As a result, the trailing waves pile on top of the waves in front of them, thereby significantly increasing the height of the wave before hitting the shore.Although a tsunami advances much slower as it approaches land, its momentum is powerful enough to cause severe destruction.If you are close to the sea and the water retreats by an abnormal amount, move to high ground at once.

While it is possible that the region could be affected by earthquake-generated tsunamis, scientists currently believe that the more immediate threats posed by earthquake hazards such as collapsing buildings, falling electricity lines, ruptured gas lines, rock slides and/or landslides on mountains and hillsides (as recently witnessed in Dominica, Trinidad, the British Virgin Islands and the Cayman Islands) are more of a present danger to the region. Greater focus should, therefore, be placed on ensuring that effective public education programmes are undertaken to sensitize the public to these hazards and serious consideration should be given to constructing sound earthquake-resistant buildings.

For updates on these and other geologic events occurring in the region please visit the Seismic Research Unit’s website at www.uwiseismic.com. Based at the University of the West Indies in St. Augustine Trinidad, the Seismic Research Unit is the agency responsible for monitoring earthquakes and volcanoes throughout the English-speaking Eastern Caribbean.

Explore Anegada

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Anegada is unlike any other island in the Caribbean chain. It’s a flat coral atoll, its highest peak only 28-feet above sea level, with white sand, salt ponds and scrub vegetation. The turquoise seas flowing over the surrounding coral reefs are brilliant and the long, barely inhabited beaches have a wild, natural beauty. If this description doesn’t entice you to visit, then the prospect of a smattering of rum-stocked bars, delicious-tasting lobster and seafood, and chance to do nothing but swim, snorkel and snooze all day surely should.

The trick to sail to Anegada is to navigate through the submerged coral heads that surround this 10-mile long by 2-½ mile-wide island. There have been over 300 wrecks through the ages. You can see some of the artifacts from these marine disasters “musket balls, ship’s timbers and coins” in a museum at Pomato Point. Avoid adding to this mix by starting your trip on a clear day with sunny skies and calm seas. It’s 12-miles from Virgin Gorda to Anegada, and due to the flatness of the island you won’t see it on the horizon until you’re about 6 miles offshore.

Many boaters spend the night at North Sound, Virgin Gorda, and then cast off at daybreak. Sailboaters will find it takes the best part of a day. If you’re bareboating to Anegada for the first time, most charter companies will require you to have an experienced captain on board.

The channel entrance, which leads to the main anchorage, is less than a mile off the beach between Setting Point and Pomato Point on the island’s northwest shore. Red and green buoys mark the channel. The draft here is only 7 to 8 feet. There are mooring balls offered on a first-come, first-serve basis. You can anchor here, too. Moorings are also available at Neptune’s Treasure, located north between Setting Point and Pomato Point.

Touring Anegada is easy. You can take a cab or rent a small jeep. From the Setting Point anchorage, walk up the small dock to the Anegada Reef Hotel. Here, you can get ice, dispose of garbage and do some limited provisioning.

From this point, drive east to the roundabout and head south. The concrete road hugs the shore. When you get to the edge of the salt pond, look for Roseate Flamingos. Flamingos use to be plentiful here over fifty years ago. In 1992, a project by the British Virgin Islands National Parks Trust introduced flamingos back to their native nesting grounds and the flock has thrived.

You’ll know you’re in “The Settlement”, the main town, more so by the welcome sign than any bustle. The government’s rock iguana breeding program is here, and so are a few gift shops, government buildings, private residences and the small airstrip.

Past here, the road turns into sand. The reward for a bumpy ride east is magnificent Loblolly Beach. The snorkeling is great within the protected reef and shelling is spectacular. Lunch at the Big Bamboo is a must.

Head back to Setting Point by following the sand road to the East and see Bones Bight, Cow Wreck Bay and finally round the northern tip of the island to Pomato Point. Although there are less than 200 people who live on Anegada, there’s more than a half dozen places to dine. Try Neptune’s Treasure, run by the Soares Family, the Cow Wreck Beach Bar and Pomato Point Restaurant.

If you’re looking for nothing to do in a place that offers this and more, head to Anegada.

Getting Ready for the Caribbean 1500

It’s hard to believe that 15 years have passed since the 1st Caribbean 1500 in 1989. Having crewed in the 1993 event on Jessie, an Alden 54 that won 1st place, I know firsthand how truly exciting this rally is. Taking line honors this year was Bob and Mallika DeHaven’s Mistress Mallika from Alexandria, VA. The new Oyster 62 completed the 1500-mile passage in 6 days 13 hours 30 minutes. Handicap and Class 1 winner was Special Delivery, a Taswell 58 sailed by Bill and Diana Quinlan of Jacksonville, FL.

The fleet, of 46 offshore yachts, assembled at the Bluewater Yachting Center in Hampton, Virginia, for five days of inspections and briefings preceding the departure. Skippers had their choice of entering either the Rally Class, a fun race that includes the opportunity to use the engine, or the Cruising Class, a passage in tandem with no performance placements. Included were 13 veterans and 30 first-time participants in yachts ranging from 38 feet to 62 feet, with skippers and crews hailing from the US and Canada. According to organizer Steve Black, “We left the Chesapeake Bay in light northerlies that diminished overnight as the boats approached the Gulf Stream where most motored across the Stream, completing their crossing in the first 24 hours. Vessels shared positions and weather information twice daily on their SSB radios.”

Ralliers received a warm November welcome at Village Cay Marina where Mount Gay Rum hosted nightly parties for the sailors. Village Cay and Doyle Sailmakers sponsored the awards dinner to honor the participants, Chief Minister Dr. Orlando Smith welcomed the group to the BVI and Black presented the awards.

Cliff Merrill, MD aboard Compeller, received the Fishing Trophy for both quantity and variety of fish caught underway. Fred Thomas received the Cal Fearon Award for his creative problem solving. Greg and Lisa Smith received the Seven Seas Cruising Association/Blue Water Sailing Clean Wake Award.

Men in the Galley: Mark Miles, S/V Pacific Wave

But the award that raised the biggest whoopee was when The Tempest Trophy, illustrative of the spirit of the Caribbean 1500, was presented to the crew of Crescendo – Harry Weber, Al Grigalunas, Loren Thompson, Patrick O’Brien and skipper John Parker. True to all laws of the sea this brave group came to the aid of the damaged catamaran, Jet Stream and remained with her for 6 hours until relieved by CG Cutter Block Island. Very fortunately for all concerned, the cat was able to return safely to Hampton to undergo repairs before sailing on to join her comrades.

Black tells All At Sea, “It was a fun sail this year. Once the front went through we had some of the best sailing I have ever had with good strong winds just aft of the beam all the way to Road Town.” Congratulations go out to Black for his perseverance in leading this cruising event for the past 15 years as well as to Hal Sutphen and Davis Murray who are terrific “Aides in Chief”. This discipline in blue water sailing would not be the same without them. A return rally is planned for May 1, 2005 and a rally to Bermuda will be held in mid June.

Anguilla’s Charming Schooner

Caribbean Water Rats – The Kids Have It!

One of the most positive events happening in the BVI is the predominance of kids and their excellence in water events. As a parent, there is nothing that pleases me more than to see the younger generation taking to the water. Recently we had three such events on our islands and excellence was a part of them all.

The 3rd BVIYC School’s Regatta took place recently with two classes competing for the coveted Laser Radials and Optis Trophies. Top honors went to a great young BVI sailor, Bryshaun Scatliffe who came in 1st in the Laser Radial Class. Bryshaun is a long time competitor in not only local youth racing but international events as well. He is currently a student at BVI High School and has represented the BVI in the Athens Olympics, Optimist Worlds in Spain, the Optimist North Americans in Bermuda, and was the voted the best Club junior helmsman RBVIYC. Bryshaun is the jib trimmer for top adult BVI racer Guy Eldridge on his Melges 24 – Mistress Quickly.

In the Opti Class, Alec Anderson took 1st place. No stranger to the sea, Alec has been in the sailing world almost since birth – his father manages the infamous “Willy T” – home to sailors throughout the Caribbean.

The Red Stripe Surf Series was also held in December with ten surfing youngsters showing their prowess. Having surfed for three years, youngster Cameron Walton won this event. The amazing thing about this is that Cameron is only eight. Trevor Jones, Charley Tarn, Joshua Morrell and Henry Pascoe came in 2nd thru 5th respectively and showed tenacity as well as skills as they maneuvered their boards through several large waves at Josiah’s Bay.

And not to be outdone, Evan and Grayson Smith won the coveted Seven Seas Cruising Association Clean Wake Award (along with their parents) aboard their J-44, Indigo, when they rallied from Hampton, Virginia, to Road Town, Tortola, in the 1500 mile rally sponsored by West Marine. These youngsters not only learned all of the basics of ocean navigation but also quite a bit about log keeping and fishing at sea.

Thar She Blows! Whales in the Caribbean

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An amazing thing happened to me on a whale-watching trip out of Provincetown, Massachusetts, in the early 90s. I was on a boat with approximately 100 people. The captain remembered me from prior trips and allowed me to sit with him in the wheelhouse to avoid the crowd on deck. He located whales off the port side so everyone moved to port, standing 3-4 people deep along the rails.

I climbed down as a feeling compelled me to stay along the starboard side. I was staring at the water wishing I had taken a less crowded boat when a nose silently started to rise from the water just below me.

A nose…a head…an eye rose until it was level with my eyes, not 3 feet distant. The massive Humpback hung there while he looked into my eyes and studied my face. I have no idea how long the encounter lasted as I was lost in that small eye staring from such a large, ancient head. I fought the urge to touch him; it would have been so easy but I feared it would break the spell and I had no right to violate the whale’s realm. The whale was in charge and I was his subject.

As silently as he had arisen from the depths, he descended and swam away, leaving only the tiniest of ripples in the water where he had been. I turned to see if anyone had noticed. There was no one else on the starboard side.

I turned to the captain in the wheelhouse. He was looking down at me with a smile as he nodded and winked. That was 15 years ago but I can still shut my eyes and see the magnificent, wondrous Humpback whale that chose me to study.

Future articles will cover whales found in the Caribbean as well as around the world that are facing imminent extinction. For now I am interrupting the current series because the next couple of months will see the annual migration of Humpbacks from their calving and mating grounds in the Caribbean to their summer feeding grounds off the northeastern coast of the U.S. and Canada.

Last year I was privileged to lecture during the Environmental Association of St. Thomas’/St. John’s whale watching trips. EAST, a non-profit environmental organization, sponsors 4 one-day trips each year during the month of February. The captain and crew of the catamaran Allura graciously sail out to the Humpbacks’ migration routes where passengers are taught whale-spotting techniques. Along the way there are lectures on whales as well as other marine and bird life that might be seen in and about the seas.

I will be onboard again this year and EAST, the Association of Reef Keepers, and the captain of Allura invite readers of All At Sea to join us. This year’s trips are February 19th, 20th, 26th, and 27th. Allura departs the National Park Service Dock in Red Hook on St. Thomas at 8:30 a.m. and returns around 4 pm. Tickets are available at Dockside Book Store and East End Secretarial Service on St. Thomas; Connections in Cruz Bay on St. John; or by contacting EAST at (340) 774-8816 or (340) 774-1837. Space is limited to 45 passengers per trip. And who knows. Humpbacks can live over 70 years. Perhaps, this year, I will once again meet the whale who chose me all those many years ago.

Red Stripe BVI Surfing Series Results

Vacationing New Jersey surfer Dalton Johnson turned 18 and gifted himself a first place finish at the January 3rd Red Stripe BVI Surfing Series event. Held at Apple Bay the contest featured 2-4 ft waves and onshore wind conditions. Twenty surfers from the US, St Thomas, St John, Puerto Rico and Tortola competed in Open and Junior divisions.

Johnson was pressured in the final by St John surfer Galen Stamford and

David Enloe. Stamford from St John who was particularly impressive in his preceding heats was full of spit and polish in the 20-minute final but both he and Enloe from St Thomas fell to Johnson’s longer rides and better grasp of the conditions at hand.

“Today’s surf would have represented a good day back home, except I’m surfing in a board shorts here as opposed to a wetsuit,” explained the New Jersey surfer. This is the second time Johnson has competed in the Red Stripe Surf Series. He won the Junior Division two years ago when he was also vacationing with his family. “Today’s win was all the better as it’s my birthday,” he added.

24 Raced in Inaugural USVI Stars & Stripes Poker Run

Stamford took 2nd in the final with Enloe in third. Fourth went to Stefan Cortello from St John with Mike Soule also from St John in 5th. The lone BVI Surfer in the final was JC Pierce who came 6th.

Competition in the Junior Division saw David Enloe charge to easy win.

Tortola surfer Sean Anderson took 2nd while Puerto Rican competitor Christian Rivera scored 3rd.

The January 2nd event was the 2nd of the 5-stop Red Stripe Surf Series. Event #1 was held on December 12th. Minimal surf conditions saw all but the Grommet division cancelled.

The 2005 Red Stripe Surf Series is sponsored by Red Stripe, Highland Spring water, HIHO, Cane Garden Bay Surfboards, Caribbean Surf Company, Trident Trust, Sea Urchin, Tool Town & Von Zipper.

More info at www.go-hiho.com

David Enloe Wins 2005 Red Stripe Surf Series

10th Gustav Wilmerding Regatta

The first weekend in December is always the date for the Gustav Wilmerding Regatta. This fun but competitive event is run by the Loyal West End Yacht Club of Tortola and hosted by the Jolly Roger Restaurant and Pirates’ Bight at Norman Island. The story goes that Gustav Wilmerding was a famous Pirate who lived on Little Thatch in the 1700s. Upon returning, he would ring a bell, known as a “Ding Dong” after his successful raids. Thus, the starting mark for this 2-day regatta is known as the “Ding Dong Mark” and begins the course that will take racers between two and three hours to complete.

Because of the ferry traffic at Soper’s Hole, the Saturday race is a pursuit format with a start at the Jolly Roger and a finish at The Bight. Each boat starts at a different time according to their handicap, so the racing boats finish in the order of their position over the line. The race back to Tortola from Pirates is much the same way with the Awards Ceremony being held at the Jolly Roger.

Although the turnout was lighter than in past years, due to many activities being held on the weekend, loyal sailors still turned up for some good sailing and a great time. Pajamas crew Martin Van Houten reports that the “the days were great for racing, with beautiful skies and winds at about 15 knots out of the east. The best racing was on Sunday from The Bight back to Tortola. Four boats were neck in neck rounding Flannigan Island to port. This is where the winners were decided.”

Mistress Quickly won, Ruffian was second, with Pajamas third on Saturday and fourth on Sunday. Everyone enjoyed the camaraderie and looks forward to the Sweethearts & Classic Yacht Regatta on Feb. 13th & 14th.

The Gustav Wilmerding Regatta

 

How to Catch a BIG Tarpon

How to Catch a BIG Tarpon

Flies: Back in the 1970s, the idea of using a strip of rabbit fur as the wing for a trout streamer was born. From there, the compulsive imagination of fly tiers took over and one of the most effective trout streamers ever devised – the zonker – was born. It was only a matter of time before saltwater fly fisherman began experimenting with those same strips of rabbit fur, and eventually the fly that I call the Tarpon Zonker was born. What makes these flies so great is the action the rabbit fur imparts in the water with a slow to medium retrieve. It just seems to come alive, and while the fly doesn’t actually resemble anything that lives in the ocean, Tarpon really love them.

Now that I’ve put you on one of the deadliest Tarpon flies I’ve ever fished, you have to be ready before you get to your favorite spot. The night before my charters I make sure that everything is rigged. All of my leaders are hand tied and I use Zap-A-Gap glue on every knot. I store several dozen flies on my leader stretcher so they are ready to fish.

How to Catch a Marlin on a Fly Rod

Rods: Your choice of a fly rod and reel is critical, and should be based on the size of the fish you expect to encounter. If you are an expert fly fisherman you may be able to handle a 20-30 pound fish on a 9wt fly rod. For the average fly fisherman my favorite is a St. Croix Legend Ultra 10wt rod. My clients can comfortably handle this rod and it’s easy to cast. If you plan on chasing fish in the 100 pound and up class, then consider a 12wt rod combined with a 13 wt fly line. The heavier line will help you load the rod and ease the stress on your arms. New for 2005 from St. Croix is a 12wt 4-piece rod with a fighting grip on the rod for fighting those really big Tarpon.

Sick Rods: Custom Fishing Rods to a Functional Art Form

Reels: There have been a huge number of large arbor reels appear on the market the last few years. My advice is to stick with a manufacturer that has been building quality reels for years. My reels of choice are Ross Reels, and they been building them since the 1970s which means there’s a great company standing behind the reel. I use the Ross Canyon Big Game Reels in size #6 and #7 for tarpon and a #5 for bonefish. These reels can handle 10-13 wt fly lines and at least 300 yards of backing. My favorite backing is new XTS gel Spun backing from Scientific Anglers. It’s built with a smaller diameter for more capacity. XTS Gel Spun backing allows more reel capacity. This exceptionally small-diameter backing is braided to increase the inherent strength of the material. I use it in 50lb test in bright chartreuse, it’s great stuff and will last for years.

Be Ready: If you are lucky enough to hook a really big fish, take a quick look to make sure any loose fly line isn’t going to snag on the deck. Remember, this isn’t a trout so get the fish on the reel just as soon as you can. Now you can hang on and let the tarpon make its first wild run. This is important, the person running the boat needs to start chasing after the fish right away while you reel like crazy to keep a tight line. You must keep the distance between you and the tarpon as close as possible. The shorter the line, the more leverage you have, allowing you to get that fish to the boat as quickly as possible. Try and get the head out of the water and move it around as much as possible, the more you can move the fish in a direction he doesn’t want to go, the quicker you can get it to the boat, take a photo and release it to fight another day.

Fishing Rod Building: Build your Own Rod with these EASY Steps

Capt. Anderson runs South Of Twenty Angling Adventures on St. Thomas. He specializes in guided fly and light tackle fishing trips for Bonefish, Tarpon, and Snook.

MONSTER Blue Marlin Caught in Puerto Rico

Christmas came early for angler Christian Brox, visiting Puerto Rico from Norway. On December 11, aboard the charter boat “Big Time”, captained by Eduardo Alcaide, Christian hooked into a monster blue marlin. The fish knocked down the left short rigger, then came back again and swallowed a blue and green Pakula Mouse. It was trolled on a Fin Noire 130# outfit.

An hour later, they tipped the fish but the big girl took off three more times and 45 minutes later before she came up tired. Eduardo roped the fish’s bill and he and his three charter guests pulled the fish aboard. This was quite a feat considering he was fishing without his mate.

Eduardo runs his boat out of the Conquistador Resort and was fishing off the northeast coast of Puerto Rico, 7 miles out from the Fajardo lighthouse. The captain spotted some black fin tunas jumping and birds diving on bait so went over to catch a few tuna for his charter. As soon as he got to the school of tuna, the huge blue marlin came up in his spread. The fish was hooked at 3:15 pm and was boated at approximately 5 pm.

The fish was enormous, the measurements were 134 inches from lower jaw to fork of tail and the widest girth was 70 inches around. The next morning the fish was taken to Puerto del Rey Marina and Tommy Avila, the dock master got out the digital scale. With a gathering crowd looking on, the fish was hoisted into the air and the scale read 814 pounds, quite a Christmas present for angler Brox. It appears that the big marlins are around all year, not only in the summer months.

St. Maarten Charter Yacht Exhibition

“If everything goes to plan and all the captains are happy, that’s what we’ll call a success,” exhibition chair Kass Johnson-Halliday told All At Sea back in November, when looking forward to the inaugural St Maarten Charter Yacht exhibition.

By the close of play on December 11th, she will have been able to tick the boxes marked ‘It did’, ‘They were’ and ‘We can’. Months of meticulous preparation, slick marketing and a large volunteer contingent came together to pull off an event that looked like it was celebrating a jubilee year rather than treading new ground. Cue sighs of relief and a fair degree of mutual back-slapping from a marine community that doesn’t so much blow its own trumpet as hire an orchestra. Those who were waiting for a bum note, however, went home disappointed.

Boat shows are supposed to be about boats, but the idea of the St Maarten Charter Yacht Exhibition (or SYCE) was to attract brokers to the island – with reason. St Maarten is already the preferred winter port for hundreds of megayachts, thanks to duty free fuel and provisioning and a high concentration of entertainment and skilled technical support. The show’s tally of some 50 registered yachts is a fraction of the number that pack the marinas during the season. The challenge, then, was to attract the all-important agents. Of the 140+ who came from the Caribbean, US or Europe, around 40 per cent were visiting St Maarten for the first time. Tickled pink, many pledged to return next year.

Mood Upbeat for St. Maarten Caribbean Boat Show

The other function of the show was to bring together the local marine businesses and vendors in a coherent, formal single exhibition. While the St Maarten Marine Trades Association has been busting a gasket for the last ten years to bring yachts to the island, its members rarely have an opportunity to perform in unison. Most of the 70 or so vendors who exhibited reported a steady trickle of genuine interest, further pushing St Maarten’s claim to have a solution to any technical or logistical problem a yacht can have.

One problem no one can find a solution to, however, is the local traffic. A horrendous weekend in which curiously-timed road works brought most of Simpson Bay to a standstill meant the marinas and La Palapa and Simpson Bay Yacht Club suffered, but an impeccable water taxi shuttle between these two, Isle de Sol and Port de Plaisance meant no one had to miss out. Indeed, the highlight of the SYCE was at La Palapa, with 280′ beauty Annaliesse, one of the widest boats ever to come through the bridge, tied up alongside the dock for all (with a pass) to see.

2nd Annual St. Maarten Chart Yacht Exhibition – December 5-8

Although the show threw open its doors to the public on the Saturday, the decision to restrict access to a registered attendee-only basis (due to security regulations) was vindicated. A potential public clamour for more access never happened, and yacht Captains, crews and brokers were able to go about the seduction business in peace. Likewise, a program of seminars covering topics from ISM and Immigration to Satellite Communications, ISPS and Wine kept the mood business-orientated.

St Maarten can now boast two major events that mark it down as the yachting capital of the Caribbean. The first one, a 25-year-old Regatta named after a beer, grew both chaotically and spontaneously from a quiet local race to a major international affair. It could be that, within a much shorter period of time, St Maarten becomes equally well known for the second one – a Charter show that started out on a completely different tack, exploding onto the scene with a clear mission and with not so much as a lightbulb unchecked.

SCYE in brief

Congratulations to Gavin Opie of Star Ship and Leon Walker of Que Sera, who won the Showboats International Chef de Concours competition in the 125’+ and under 125′ categories respectively.

In the days following the show, the Captain and Crew of M/Y Star Fire invited children and teachers from Prins Willem Alexander school aboard, to give a tour of the boat and donate audio visual equipment and arts and sports supplies.

St. Maarten – St. Martin Classic Yacht Regatta

Genoa Size Related to Sheeting Position and Performance

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Doug Stewart from Quantum Sails looks at Genoa sizing as it relates to sheeting position and performance.

Have you ever wondered why the clew (the corner the sheets tie to) of your Genoa is so far out of reach that you cannot adjust the leech line?

Did you ever wonder why the clew was so low you could not see under it?

Here are the reasons why headsails are sized the way they are and what limits the finished area of a sail.

All boats come with either a dedicated track for the genoa cars to slide on or a rail that a snatch block can clip to. The location of the track as it relates to the width of the boat as well as the length will determine not only the size of the sail but also its upwind performance.

To start, lets clear up some terminology as it pertains to measurements on the boat. The J dimension without being to technical is the measurement from the front face of the mast forward to the point where the head stay enters the deck. The LP or luff perpendicular is a measurement taken from the clew of the sail to the closest (tangent) point on the luff. Taking the measured LP of any sail and dividing that number by the J measurement on the boat will then give you the size of the sail. So if we had a J of 10′ and a LP of 13′ the LP as a percentage of J would be 130%.

Guide to Sail Trim Part III: Symmetric and Asymmetric Spinnaker Trim

In Drawing 1 notice that the Clew of the blue, purple and orange sail all fall along the imaginary 110% LP line. Area of a Genoa = Luff * LP * .5 and because the LP is the same on all three genoas, the area is also the same on all three.

Sheet lead position for most headsails can generally be found by bisecting the angle of the clew. The higher the clew, the lead moves aft and the lower the clew the lead moves forward.Notice how the Orange and Blue sails sheet lead miss the track due to the clew being either to high or to low. The purples sail on the other hand is perfectly placed leaving enough room for this sail to be reefed if needed. For every roll that is taken when reefing, the Genoa car must be moved forward to ensure that the clew angle is bisected by the sheet which will in turn keep equal tension on the foot and leech. A good idea is to have reefing marks on the foot of the Genoa that can be guides to roll to when reefing. The lead position for these reefing points can also be marked on the track so the car can be moved while reefing.

Furling Headsail Sizes: Making the Right Choice

Notice on the 80% jib (black sail) the clew must be considerably higher then the Purple sail in order to lead to the similar position on the track. It is not an option, based on where the track is, for this 80% Jib to have a low clew.

One question frequently asked is what the performance difference is between two sails with the same area but different clew heights. Drawing 2 represents an overhead shot of the sails in Drawing 1. Notice how the higher clew sails sit further outboard then the lower clewed sails. Generally, the higher the clew is off the deck, the further outboard the clew will fly. Just like easing the sheet out slightly when beating upwind which will result in a loss of speed and pointing ability a clew that is higher and further outboard will result in a similar performance loss.

So how does all this newfound information help you, the everyday cruiser? When trying to figure out what size Genoa to order for your boat, discuss sheet leads and clew heights with your sail maker and what impact these choices may make on the performance of your boat.

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The Antigua Charter Yacht Show

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The 2004 Antigua Charter Yacht
Show was an important one. While the event itself has just completed it’s 43rd
year, this was the inaugural year under the new management team of Antigua
Charter Yacht Meeting. Originally founded by VEB Nicholson and family, they
“passed the torch” to the non-profit corporation formed solely to run and
maintain the Antigua Charter Yacht Show. Under pressure of new management and a
competing Charter Yacht show, there was a lot to prove this year and
wonderfully, all evidence points to a well run event and continued success as
the Caribbean’s premiere charter yacht show.

From December 2nd to
December 7th, 102 yachts, 285 agents and press from around the world
converged on English Harbour and Falmouth Harbour. Docked at the Antigua Yacht
Club Marina, Falmouth Marina and at historic Nelson’s Dockyard, a variety of
charter yachts: sloops, ketches, motor yachts, schooners, mega yachts and
multi-hulls were on display. There was a little of something for everyone;
something to cater to every taste and it is this variety that seems a key to
success.

Island Water World Grenada Sailing Week

One particularly exciting yacht,
the sloop Tiara out of Georgetown, Cayman Islands had booked 3 to 4 charters by
the day we went on board. The second largest sloop in the world (178′), Tiara
was built in New Zealand in twenty-two months and delivered two months early. I
loved this boat! Configurable for twelve guests and with a crew of ten, there
was everything to offer. An all mahogany art deco interior detailed with
vintage lighting fixtures from a 1920’s library, secret passages, drop screens,
helipad, Jacuzzi, a well equipped and beautiful galley and a mechanized boson’s
chair that made my All at Sea teammate giddy. All in all, a well-appointed
sloop beautifully decorated without being uncomfortable.

Another comfortable and
user-friendly yacht was the motor yacht Jo. Wanting to experience the variety
the show had to offer first hand, I thought that Jo would be a great contrast.
Listed with Camper & Nicholsons, this eight-month-old yacht is all about
recreation! Well equipped with every toy you can imagine from clear-bottomed
kayaks to state of the art laptops and karaoke machines, you cannot possibly be
bored. Five to six cabins that sleep ten to twelve people are each decorated by
a different designer – Versace, Ralph Lauren, Burberry and Mulberry – and yet
each cabin is far from stuffy. There was positive feedback from the crew
regarding the show and they also booked charters while in Antigua.

The Concourse de Chef competition
coordinated by Sarah Sebastian, Maiween Beagle and Cpt Jan Robinson was
delicious. Adam Mulroney of Northern Light received the Boat International
prize for Most Outstanding Chef as well as the Best Chef in the mega-yacht
category for his Lobster and Melon Ravioli with a coconut grouper ceviche in a
crispy plantain basket with lemon foam. Mulroney also took the Best use of the
Bean award for his Frozen Cappuccino Mouse with a chocolate covered coffee
bean. Best Luxury Yacht Chef winner went to Joost Diereckx of Kalikobass II,
the Traditional Yacht under 80 feet award went to Joshua Marron of yacht Maxi
Gitana and the award for the Best Table Setting for Perrier Jouet was given to
Sapphire.

The vendor’s tent was centrally
located in Falmouth and was well attended by both vendors and visitors. In the
end, 285 exhibiting and non-exhibiting vendors were involved in the show. A
solid social schedule again highlighted the variety this show has to offer and
by accounts, a good time was had by all.

Congratulations go out to the
team at Antigua Charter Yacht Meeting for a successful and fun filled
show.

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18th Annual Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta Dates Set

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From humble but enthusiastic beginnings, the Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta has grown to one of the premiere classic regattas in the world. Held annually in April, the regatta begins what has become the famous one-two event that closes the yachting season – the renowned Antigua Sailing Week immediately follows it. The gentleman’s regatta has an avid following by both participants and lovers of the classic sailing vessel with participants returning year after year.

The 2004 regatta proved a grand success with both the amount of participation as well as the amount of international media coverage. There were fifty-nine entrants registered in the following classes: Traditional, Classic, Vintage, Spirit of Tradition and Tall Ships. Photographers Onne Van deWal, Roddy Grimes-Graeme and
Roger Lean-Vercoe were in attendance as well as press from sponsor, Boat International, Yachting World and Marine Bateau.

This year’s event will be held from April 14th through April 19th. Racing will commence on Saturday and each course is approximately 24 miles. All starts will be at 10:00 immediately outside Falmouth Harbor. Scoring penalty RR 44.3 will apply as well as the Low Point scoring system, rule A4.

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The folks at the Antigua Yacht Club Marina and the National Parks Authority among others have generously donated dockage days. Combine free dockage with a chock-a-block social events calendar (which includes a Mount Gay Cap Party for those coveted red caps), beautiful boats, Antigua’s picturesque Southern Coast and, of
course, the racing and you have an event that shouldn’t be missed!

A category A event, registration for the 2005 Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta is now open. Pre-entry forms and further information can be obtained from the Antigua Yacht Club secretary at 268-460-1799 or by visiting the Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta website at www.antiguaclassics.com

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Anchoring in the Caribbean – How Do I Know Where to Anchor?

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Where to Anchor

You have the boat – purchased or rented – and you are ready to head out on your own private adventure. No tourist-filled cattle boat for you anymore. It’s time for the two of you to explore those small, romantic bays that long-time Caribbean boaters have told you about.

The whole day is perfectly planned … a quiet cove, a picnic lunch, a bottle of champagne … and a National Park Service Ranger pulling his boat up alongside yours to write you a ticket for illegal anchoring. Not exactly what you had in mind? In that case, the first thing you had better do before you head to that romantic spot is to find out where you can legally drop your hook. There are many ways to obtain good information about where to anchor in the Caribbean; here are a few of the best.

Within the U.S. Virgin Islands, the first resource to consult is the National Park Service (NPS) website (www.nps.gov). The NPS has very strict rules governing the use of anchors and you risk a ticket if you violate them. The only Marine National Park in the British Virgin Islands is the Wreck of the Rhone (www.britishvirginislands.com), where anchoring is strictly prohibited (mooring buoys are available). Boaters are allowed to anchor in the sand bottoms of Tobago Cays Marine Park; however, there is no anchoring allowed anywhere in Bonaire – the entire island is a National Marine Park.

Zen and the Art of Anchoring…

Charts Help Determine Where to Anchor

Nautical charts produced by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA at www.noaa.gov) offer the best information about reef location, types of bottoms at each anchorage, water depth, hazards, channels, etc., from Virgin Gorda to St. Thomas (NOAA chart number 25641.) Imray-Iolaire charts cover the non-U.S. Caribbean all the way down to Trinidad and west to Aruba. Charts are available at most ship chandlers, such as Budget Marine, Island Marine Outfitters, Island Water World and West Marine, and range in price from approximately $36.00 for a single page to $80 for a Chart Kit that contains five to six charts and aerial photos of favorite spots. (You can check the full range of charts available from NOAA’s approved online vendors: www.oceangrafix.com and www.maptech.com. Look for Imray-Iolaire charts at www.nauticalcharts.com and www.bluewaterweb.com, to name a couple.) However, traditional nautical charts can be a bit daunting for those who are not used to reading them – don’t despair! There are many other resources available for those of you who want something simpler.

Cruising Guides offer great tips for Where to Anchor

An excellent source of information, and one that is easy to carry on a small boat, is any one of a number of cruising guides that offer specific information about the islands. Guides from Cruising Guides Publications (www.cruisingguides.com), not only provide anchoring information from the Bahamas to Trinidad, they also offer advice on how to approach an anchorage, the type of bottom you are likely to find, restaurants ashore and other tips. Reed’s Nautical Almanac is another good resource; it is crammed full of all sorts of useful information, such as local holidays and tide tables. These guides range in price from about $26.00 to $50.00; you will find that most boaters have two or three different volumes on board. It is not a bad idea to compare information in different books – and never forget that a cruising guide was accurate only on the day it was written. That said, however, you will find that most boaters cherish any cruising guides written by Donald M. Street, Jr., in their possession – no matter how old. Street has cruised the Caribbean for decades. His books contain small sketch charts, as well as tidbits about life in the islands before the arrival of many modern-day conveniences. A good rule of thumb, though, is that if your guide is outdated, spend the money to buy a new one.

Local knowledge is best for Where to Anchor

If you just want to know where to go today, without have to take a course in navigation, local knowledge is the key. Even boaters who arm themselves with charts and the latest cruising guides should seek out people who live and boat in the area they want to visit. You may be tempted to explore an anchorage that was written up last year – the people on the beach might have been there last weekend. Ask around. Walk down the dock and talk to people. Discuss your plans with the folks at the marine stores; they deal with captains – professional and amateur – every day, and they keep up with what is happening around the islands. I have yet to meet a boater who would not share information – and opinions – with a fellow mariner, especially if you buy him a beer while you are chatting at the local boater’s bar.

Still not ready to head out on your own? An easy way to get where you want to go is to follow someone into an anchorage – provided that someone knows the area. Get friends to show you how to navigate into a secluded bay and talk you through the tricky parts (on a working channel please, not channel 16). Just be sure you use the most important resource you have – your brain. Ask questions, evaluate the answers and share information. If the boat you are following draws three feet and your boat draws six – and the captain of the lead boat doesn’t know that – you are in trouble. Pay attention to markers. A Boat Exclusion Area marker means, “Stay out.” Look around you. White water usually means shallow water – maybe even a reef. Above all, communicate with your crew and the person providing the information.

Where to Anchor – A True Story:

We had started the engine, furled the sails and were ready to approach the anchorage. I was at the helm. The owner/captain said to me, “Okay, take her straight in.” When I did not immediately comply, he turned and gave me a questioning look.

“I’m going to take her around the reef instead of straight over it,” I replied, stating what I thought was obvious.

“There’s a reef in front of us?” he asked. “I didn’t know – I’ve never been here before.”

I was startled. Had he been driving, I am sure that when he headed toward the reef I would have corrected him in my usual diplomatic way, “Where the [censored] are you going?” But what if I had turned over the helm and gone below? I was unaware that this was his first visit – a potentially serious failure to communicate by experienced boaters who should have known better.

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What Now for Yacht Insurance?

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In the November issue of All At Sea we ran a short interview with a European insurance broker who gave us an initial response to the devastation in Grenada, in particular that: “Storing a yacht on the hard with standard rigging was always a failure. The cradles of marinas in the Caribbean are mostly not strong enough to survive in a tropical storm. Where there are no cradles but only stilts, there is no question that that is not enough.”

This opinion was by no means met with unanimous agreement (see letters page). To get a second opinion on yacht insurance, we spoke to International Marine Insurance Services’ Al Golden:…

“I don’t believe that cradles are the problem. The problem stems from using jackstands instead of cradles on soft surfaces, compounded by storing sailboats with their spars rigged, and in close proximity to one another.

When you have a sailboat stored with its mast stepped, and supported by jackstands on a soft surface you are near certain to have a failure under tropical storm conditions. With an inordinate amount of wind blowing in gusts onto the lever arm of the mast, and rain softening the ground allowing the jackstands to settle, the outcome is near certain unless the jackstands are attended constantly during the storm.

The solution (which will not happen) would be for marinas to require boats to be stripped of their spars, stored in cradles with their waterlines not less than 18′ above mean high tide, and spaced so that no boat falling can start the proverbial domino effect.

Unless a boat owner can find all of the above conditions guaranteed, he’ll need to move the boat south to avoid additional premium. It’s our belief that, at least for a year or two, the southern boundary of “the box” will move south to 11°30′ North Latitude to give Grenada a chance to recover, and the underwriters a chance to recover from Grenada.”

 

The SeaStar Foundation, Inc.

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The SeaStar Foundation is seeking other organizations and individuals to help in the fight to preserve and replenish our ocean resources. Although SeaStar is fairly new on the scene we are making rapid progress in becoming an effective force in the quest for knowledge and policy making necessary to reverse the degradation of our marine environment.

I’m Gale Myers, founder of the SeaStar Foundation. I have spent the last nine years with several environmental groups directing educational programs and coordinating logistical support providing boats and funding for various research projects.I came into these positions “through the scuppers” by spending the previous 25 years and 50,000 miles at sea.I began with a 26′ teak sloop bought in Cowes on the Isle of White, England. After teaching myself to sail and repairing the damages resulting from some of t he more dramatic epiphanies encountered in the process, I set out for 8 years living aboard, cruising solo and without an engine to the Mediterranean Sea, Madeira, Canary Islands, trans-Atlantic, throughout the Windward Islands, Grand Cayman, and finally to Florida. All navigation was done by dead reckoning, head scratching, and celestial navigation with a plastic sextant and a digital watch. During the following years I was a charter captain, delivery skipper, and had a boat maintenance and repair business in Ft. Lauderdale, Fl.I learned GPS navigation from Texas Instruments and spent several seasons as a navigator for a research vessel on the Beaufort and Chukchi Seas in the Arctic.

Saving the Blue Means Going Green

In the mid 1990’s I began working in Florida as program director for an environmental group and was involved with the Broward County School System, Florida Atlantic University, and the University of Miami, to name a few.Wanting more freedom to shape my own agenda I founded The SeaStar Foundation in 2003.

Last summer the SeaStar Foundation supplied a mother ship for a shark tagging research program being conducted at Glovers Reef, Belize.It provided food and lodging for members of the research teams and served as a convenient spot for meetings and breaks during the arduous work.The research effort is headed by the Pew Institute of Ocean Science. SeaStar has also lent support to the National Coral Reef Institute in their study of the interrelationship of Caribbean coral reefs by tracing the genetic makeup of various species living on the reefs.The Foundation provided a dive vessel and logged coordinates for the Harbor Branch Institute to conduct a state funded survey of the harmful algae growth plaguing the reefs off the eastern coast of Florida.It provides a $10,000 per semester scholarship to a brilliant student studying at the Rosenstiel School of Marine and Atmospheric Science of the University of Miami.He is under the guidance of the Pew Institute of Ocean Science which is located on the campus. SeaStar provided the Pew Institute with 4 hours of video footage for their project in Belize and 14 hours of footage for a great white shark predation study lead by their protégé, Neil Hammerschlag.

We have just begun. We are seeking a vessel to be donated for the Mast Academy, a marine science magnate school on Key Biscayne. We need a vessel suitable for conducting pelagic studies in the Gulf Stream and more research on the coral reefs of the Caribbean. We are organizing more field studies in the marine sciences at the high school and middle school level. We are gearing up to provide fun boat excursions for underprivileged children. There are so many ways we can promote a more enlightened awareness of the oceans.

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Angostura Tobago Sail Week – The Spirit of Racing

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Where in the world can you find the perfect blend of superb sailing, fantastic parties and Angostura Rum? Tobago, of course! The Angostura Tobago Sail Week truly captures “the Spirit of Racing”. Starting on the second Sunday in May of each year, the Crown Point Beach Hotel undergoes the transformation from a peaceful look-out over Store Bay to the vibrant hub of the Angostura Tobago Sail Week. The “Regatta Village” at Crown Point encompasses the Regatta Office and Committee Desk; the Angostura bars; “Under the Tent” booths selling everything from ship’s spares to a new bikini; DJ entertainment; and even a temporary jetty with a water-fill service for visiting yachts.Customs and Immigration officials are conveniently on-site during the arrival and departure periods.

You don’t have to be a sailor to enjoy the camaraderie of so many like-minded people. Admission to the parties is free, and hotels in the area are provided with invitations for their guests.If you are going to be in Tobago during the regatta, be sure to ask your hotel, or come on down to the Regatta Office (open from Friday 6th May) to register and be part of the shore-side action.

Angostura 1919 8-year Old

The regatta attracts sailors of all skill levels.The Racing Class consists of a strong core of serious racers, many of whom have been coming to Tobago since the first regatta twenty-three years ago. The Angostura Tobago Sail Week is perfectly timed between Antigua Sail Week and the regatta in Barbados, just some of the many regattas that make up the Caribbean Racing Calendar.Each one offers a unique flavour, but judging from the reputation of being the “friendliest regatta in the Caribbean” the Angostura Tobago Sail Week has blended off-shore rivalry and on-shore revelry, with a dash of Angostura, for some truly Caribbean fun.

For the equally competent sailors, but those that do not wish to fly spinnaker, there is the Cruiser-Racer class. The Cruising and Comfort Cruising classes have race-courses more amiable to those that would rather not spill their drinks, or tire themselves out before the party begins. That’s not to say that they don’t race to win, but they generally have more fun getting there!

The timing could not be better for those cruisers heading south before the start of the hurricane season. The regatta makes a great stop off on the way to Chaguaramas in Trinidad, which is a favourite for out-haul and repairs, with so many yards to choose from, and an excellent range of quality services.In fact, the regatta will be raffling a free out-haul at Power Boats for visiting yachts (racing or “liming”) that spend the week in Store Bay. To qualify for the draw, they must register with the regatta office on Sunday, and be there on the Friday night prize giving.

The Charter Class is almost a regatta within a regatta, each yacht racing head to head against other yachts of the same design in its class.These are fun-loving people that have chosen Tobago as their vacation destination. They have come for the perfect Caribbean sailing conditions, they have come to a beautiful Caribbean island, and they have come to experience Caribbean hospitality at it’s best. The regatta organizers are in touch with several charter companies that cater to groups that wish to charter a yacht, or individuals who just want a berth.Many charter packages for Tobago include a week’s cruise in the Grenadines, either before or after the regatta.For those short on time, yacht delivery to Tobago is an option, and the island has direct flights from several international destinations. Crown Point International Airport is just five minutes’ walk away.

Angostura Tobago Sail Week Celebrates 25 Years of the Spirit of Racing

With most competitors staying in and around Store Bay, there is no shortage of on-shore fun. The race courses are designed to challenge even the hardiest of sailors, but given the steady 15 to 22 knot trade winds, there is plenty time to cool off in the turquoise waters of Store Bay, and head up to the Angostura Bar to join the lively debate on the day’s races, drink in hand, of course!

The Tuesday night DHL “Express Yourself” party is legendary, with the DJ and live band belting out tunes from yesterday and yesteryear, the frenzied crowd joining in. Pepsi sponsored Lay Day is on Wednesday, starting with the “Galley Chefs” competition – a relaxed out-door “cook-up” and tasters for everyone.Then it’s on to the action – limbo – how low can you go? Grab a partner and dance the salsa, or try the hula-hoop, or for the less coordinated, the slip and slide. Then there is the Tobagonian specialty – goat racing, allowing for even the worst sailor to win something!

Each class is awarded prizes every day, so you don’t have to be an overall winner to stand victorious. Of course the highlight of the Regatta is when the sun has set on Friday, the final day of racing, and friends gather in the Regatta Village for the overall prize giving and a sumptuous dinner under the stars. No need for jacket and tie. The imminent dawn departure of most sailors does not quell the need to get the most out of this one last fete, until next year, that is, when we re-live “the Spirit of Racing”.

The Angostura Tobago Sail Week 2005 is scheduled for May 8th to 13th.For more information, visit the website www.sailweek.com or e-mail regattapromotersltd@tstt.net.tt

Angostura Tobago Sail Week

Backpacker’s Paradise: Budget-Friendly Camping Adventure in the Virgin Islands

This season discover the beauty of St. John, Tortola, Jost
Van Dyke, Virgin Gorda and Anegada for just the price of a ferry ticket. Grab
your backpack – I’m going to show you the Virgins – the laid back way –
camping!

Let’s start our trip in St. Thomas – enjoy the lovely waterfront
of Charlotte Amalie and visit Coral World & the undersea aquarium, close to
Redhook, where your adventure begins. Don your hat, lotion up and purchase a
ferry ticket to St. John, which runs hourly (always buy 1-way tickets as plans
change). The trip over to St. John is a great introduction to the Caribbean way
of life, gentle breezes and aqua water.

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St. John is beautiful and lush. 75 % of the island is a national park with a choice of
campgrounds. At Cinnamon Bay campers select from bare sites, canvas tents, and
screened shelters. At Maho Bay, enjoy screened tent cottages, connected by a
network of raised boardwalks. See the island – open-air taxis go everywhere and
are inexpensive. As there are many beaches, wear your swimsuit with a shirt
& shorts over it. These are not the French islands so remember to dress
conservatively. Take your time and enjoy St. John then check the BVI ferry
schedules.

All islands in the BVI have spectacular beaches that are public domain up to the high water
mark. Water sports locations are available and bicycling is a popular sport
with bike rentals available. Each of the islands has its’ own set of small mountain
ranges (great for hiking) with picnic tables and restroom facilities. Parks are
maintained by the National Parks Trust of the BVI.

My suggestion is to take a ferry to West End, Tortola, the largest island in the BVI. Bring your passport to clear immigration. Upon arrival get a copy of THE WELCOME MAGAZINE ( www.bviwelcome.com).

It is loaded with information – events, where to stay, eat & shop. Take the
next ferry to JVD (Jost Van Dyke). Hike to White Bay Campground at White Bay on JVD, a real winner and one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. Ivan Chinnery, a local
authority on flora and fauna, is the owner and will really help you get
settled.

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After exploring JVD take the ferry
back to Tortola. You will find excellent campgrounds on the northeast side of
the island. Brewers Bay, a long curving bay, has a small beachside campsite
with plenty of shade. On the way stop at Carrot Bay, the site of good local
bars & restaurants then continue on to Cane Garden Beach.

Another nice beachside campsite is
at Josiah’s Bay. Long Bay and East End have nice beaches, but no camping. The BVI does not have the best
bus system but you can safely hitch-hike as people are very friendly and take
great pride in their island. Although there is relatively low crime, don’t
invite it by bringing valuables with you.

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Several private ferry companies
service the island of Virgin Gorda – again, just buy a one way ticket – you
have no idea when you want to leave. Fares between Tortola
St. John are approximately $20 adult
(Children 3 – 11 $14.) Fares from Tortola to Virgin Gorda are approximately $10
adult. Fares from Tortola (West End) to Jost Van Dyke are approximately $10
adult.

A trip to Anegada takes a little
more planning but is a wonderful option. There are campgrounds and inexpensive inns on these islands – just ask
the taxi drivers when you arrive and they will take you.

So hop out of your holiday blues and
head for the nearest ferry. Treat yourself – visit the US & British Virgin
Islands and feel renewed.

Transitioning From Charterers to Live-A-Boards

Huntin’, Shootin’, Fishing has to be easy!

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Well, the hunting’s easy. I know, because I sometimes hunt out cockroaches, but shooting them? No, leave that to the experts. Fishing, now, that has to be easy. This big guy, Hassan, he comes up to me and he says,

“Look Eleanor, I caught this fella right alongside your boat”.

“OK”, I think. “If he can, I can.” So out I go and buy me a reel of line. “Tough stuff” I told the shopkeeper. “Gonna be catching a big fish.”

Got a whole bunch of hooks too, all sizes, from big to miniscule.

“Something else you’re sure gonna need,” he said. “This little book.”

“Oh?”

“Yep. Tells you about the right knots and stuff.”

So, I’m all set and I sit in the cockpit and figure out how it all fits together and all the knots and weights and stuff. Not so easy, because Alicia, my cat, is very interested and involved, getting into coils of fishing line and dabbing at the hooks. But finally, I’m there.

“Oops. Need some bait.” A quick shifty through the food locker soon sniffed out some dubious bacon.

“This will do the trick” I told Alicia. Hooked it on, slung the lot overboard and fixed my supper.

Well, you’ve read so far. By now you want to know what I caught, right? Only thing is, I don’t really want to tell you. Because — it was only a plastic bag.

Retired to bed disillusioned with the whole fishing business.

However, a new day is a new day, and I arose, a new woman and threw myself once again into this fishing business. I mean, if there really were fish hanging around my boat, like Hassan said, then there must be one stupid enough to take my hook.

Hook? Maybe I should be a bit more modest about the size. And — there was! A stupid fish, I mean. It came wiggling and squirming up out of the water, all silvery and fantastic. Probably all of six inches long, too, or maybe just about the length of one of my fingers, if I am to be honest, but it was, without a doubt, a real genuine fish. Alicia knew the real thing, too, when she saw it. In a flash she was up on her hind legs, her little dabs stretched out over the guard-rail, and before I could recover from my astonishment at having caught a real live fish, she had bitten through the line.

Oh, the disappointment; it pierced my heart, it really did. Alicia was not at all pleased, either. She gave me a cold stare. No purring. Just this blue-eyed glare. I had to resort to sharing a can of sardines with her. I had mine on toast. She had hers on my bed, her favourite eating place, pretty disgusting I bet you’re thinking.

From this you will gather that she’s not the best brought-up cat you would ever meet, no manners at all really, but I love her all the same. Even if she did ruin my day’s fishing.

Next line of defence, or do I mean attack? Yes, I guess I do, because I’m attacking wild creatures in their natural habitat. Needed advice. Yep. Into the dinghy to find Hassan.

“That one?” he exclaimed.“That one was nothing.

Boy! You shoulda seen the one that got away.” He hunted in his pocket and produced a fish hook.

And that was the moment when I decided that none of that trio, the huntin, shootin, fishin was for me. I’d stick to canned sardines or a tuna steak from the market.

For just now, anyway.