Boqueron Puerto Rico: Laidback Cruising
Boqueron on Puerto Rico’s west coast makes a natural stop off point for boats travelling east and west. It’s the last place you leave from and could be the first place you arrive at after crossing the notorious Mona Passage. The large, wide bay, open to the west is easy to enter, being mindful of the reef in the middle as you motor or sail in. Boats can pass either side of the reef, north or south, and anchor anywhere off the small town. Holding is good in mud, though it is always advisable to let the anchor settle first before you dig it in. Boquerón is not a port of entry and all boats needing clearance should first head to Mayaguez. It has been known for some sailors to anchor in Boqueron Puerto Rico and take a bus to Cabo Rojo and then another to Mayaguez to clear in but it should be noted that this is not the approved procedure and you are at the whim of the customs officials as to whether they will allow it or not.
The town itself has a colourful seaside atmosphere, small shops sell beach clothes and toys and artisans sell painted t-shirts on street corners. The ambiance is relaxed and laidback. Brightly decorated bars sell cheap drinks. Of course, this wouldn’t be Puerto Rico if you couldn’t find Puerto Rican soul food like alcapurrias or empanadillas sold from kiosks and counters up and down the two-street town. Every weekend the streets come alive as small seafood stalls sets up under colorful parasols selling pinchos (small snacks), like fresh oysters and clams (10 for $5), shark skewers or, for those more partial to meat, pork or chicken skewers barbequed over a hot grill. There are plenty of bars and restaurants to choose from – some offering $1.25 Medalla.
There are lots of cruiser-friendly places to visit and these include Galloways, which offers a congenial atmosphere, decent free wifi and a good book swap to patrons. Club Nautico has a bar and a restaurant that opens after 4pm and also offers excellent internet. You can fill up your jugs with water from their dock and if you need any information, they are very helpful. Across the street is a fuel station where you can fill your jerry cans with gas and diesel. Although not particularly great, there are a couple of stores that sell a variety of items that will cover most of your basic needs, including some fresh fruit and vegetables and frozen meats. There is a pharmacy, small medical centre and basic marine store within walking distance of the town.
Boquerón’s main attraction is its beach, arguably one of the best and finest sheltered balneario (public beach facilities) on the island with showers and toilets, changing rooms and picnic tables. Puerto Ricans travel from afar to visit this popular ‘playa’. At the weekend the palm tree shaded beach is packed with locals, blasting Latino music and setting up grills with huge homemade spreads laid out on tables and blankets. Keep an eye open for the ice cream man walking the beach selling his locally made goods to cool you down. The beach is over a mile long and starts just south of the bridge to the private lagoon and small marina. At the other end, the beach tapers off into a mangrove area known as Refugio de Boquerón – a 400 acre patch of protected mangrove – a great place for bird watching with over 60 species like ospreys or mangrove canaries. You can swim, snorkel, kayak or paddleboard through the mangrove channels. The bay is also home to the slow and gentle-natured manatee. Early in the morning you might be lucky enough to watch these genial creatures as they swim around your boat.
Whether it’s your first port of call or last after the Mona Passage, or you are simply exploring Puerto Rico’s fine
cruising grounds, make sure you leave enough time to enjoy what this small hippie seaside town has to offer.
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Rosie Burr has written for ALL AT SEA since 2010.
