Sunset at Guarna Cay, Abacos. Photo by Barry Miller
Sunset at Guarna Cay, AbacosBarry Miller

First-Timer’s Guide to the Bahamas

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Sunset at Guarna Cay, Abacos. Photo by Barry Miller
Sunset at Guarna Cay, Abacos. Photo by Barry Miller

They say it’s better in the Bahamas. But it’s even better when you know some of the lessons learned by those who have already been there.

Before you go
Only 50 miles from Florida, these islands are the closest and most exotic of getaways for cruisers. Having the right weather window for your crossing is key. It’s not unusual to wait in one of the Florida launching points for weeks to get the right combination of wind and waves to cross. Depending on which part of the Bahamas you want to go to, launch points include: Ft. Pierce, Stuart, Ft. Lauderdale and Miami.

The crossing itself has been likened to being in a washing machine because of the tossing around you get. Bring seasickness remedies even if you’ve never been affected before. My favorite is ginger root tablets, but there are several other options: a prescription ear patch which is preventative, over-the-counter drugs such as Dramamine or Bonine, which can make you sleepy, or an acupressure wrist band.

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Waiting for the weather window involves extensive research using marine experts like Chris Parker (wwmxc.com) who provides Bahamas and Caribbean marine weather and routing advice. Also, check such online resources as passageweather.com, sailflow.com, windfinder.com and nws.noaa.gov. All provide a mix of information that changes each day. In the end, however, the decision about when to leave is yours.

To reduce anxiety, many people prefer crossing with a buddy boat, and rounding up one is as easy as using the VHF.

Entering the Bahamas
It’s a foreign country despite the fact that you see American flags everywhere and hear only English. This means you need to learn its rules because, while it may be better in Bahamas, it is also different.

First, you must check in with Customs and Immigration at a port of entry. An agent will want to see your passport and any necessary papers for pets (see sidebar). The 90-day cruising fee is $300 for boats over 35 feet and includes a fishing permit. If you leave the Bahamas for a visit home, be sure to take a copy of the cruising permit so you can reenter the islands.

You can more easily return by boat to the states by signing up for Local Boater’s Option with U.S. Customs. This allows you to check in by phone rather than visit an office.

The Bahamas are loved and sometimes hated for their shallow depths. The good news is, you can anchor almost anywhere. The bad news is, it’s easy to go aground, so make sure your electronic or paper charts are current.

Dingy ashore at Elbow Cay, Abacos. Photo by Vicki Lathom
Dingy ashore at Elbow Cay, Abacos. Photo by Vicki Lathom

Be Ready for Emergencies
In case of needed boat repairs, bring important spare parts such as filters, belts, raw water impellers and hoses, because supplies are limited in the Bahamas and imports are taxed. A marina will know local mechanics and working yards, but be prepared to do the work yourself. Complex repair problems can be difficult, because there are few technically-advanced yards.

If you have a breakdown, getting your boat towed from the Bahamas to the U.S. is expensive and complicated. A membership in a towing service can be a significant protection because, for example, a tow from Freeport to Florida is $7,000. With insurance, you still have to pay the $300 Customs fee and tows are limited to 130 miles from the coast of Florida.

If you break down away from marinas or towns, you are pretty much on your own. In a life-threatening situation, you can try to contact Bahamas Air Sea Rescue Association (BASRA) on VHF. However, BASRA is a rescue, not a towing service and is not reachable everywhere. The U.S. Coast Guard normally does not serve the Bahamas except in coordination with BASRA.

A frequent cause of breakdowns is bad fuel. Buy fuel at a frequently used dock so you know it hasn’t been sitting there for a long time. If your engine coughs and dies in the Gulf Stream, you better have a buddy boat with you to tow you to safety or to buy time while you change filters.

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Simple medical problems can be taken care of in local health clinics. Bring your medical history, including a list of medications and allergies to help the doctor prescribe treatment. If it is a complex medical problem, you’ll probably have to fly back to the states or, if you have an immediate emergency, it’s best to have a plan in place in consultation with your insurance company.

Communication is Difficult
It’s pretty much silent running once you see the condos of Florida disappear over the horizon. Cell phone service is available in certain areas from Batelco (Bahamas’ service) or your U.S. provider, but is very expensive. Some cruisers have success with an Internet hotspot, coupled with a cell phone signal amplifier. Many cruisers use Skype, but Internet service is sketchy. To guarantee a way to get in touch with someone, a satellite phone may be worth the money. For serious distress situations, an EPIRB or Personal Locator Beacon may save your life.

Provisioning—Keep It Simple
You will hear recommendations of many long lists for provisioning which make you feel like you’re going to Antarctica. Keep it simple since it’s pretty much intuitive, based on where you’re going. One week’s supplies should do as a start. One seasoned cruiser told me his rule; “take fewer clothes and more cash.â€

The author’s ketch, “Cantabile,†at anchor off Firefly Restaurant at Elbow Cay, Abacos. Photo by Vicki Lathom
The author’s ketch, “Cantabile,†at anchor off Firefly Restaurant at Elbow Cay, Abacos. Photo by Vicki Lathom

Bottom Line
Now, if you’re not wiping the sweat off your brow after reading all the things that can happen, consider this just a list of ways to better ensure making it better in the Bahamas. The most important guideline is to be prepared with a plan. Just sailing off into the blue with pretty much the look of adventure on your face can be an invitation to Murphy’s Law.

PREP TO TAKE A PET:
Taking a pet to the Bahamas takes some planning.  Some of the rules for bringing a cat or dog are clear, some not so clear.

Bahamian pet regulations are the responsibility of the Bahamas Ministry of Agriculture. The pet must be at least six months old and have received a rabies vaccination.

Apply for a permit from the Bahamas Ministry of Agriculture, which costs $10. Don’t wait until the last minute since the mail takes six weeks one way. Experienced cruisers pay the extra $5 to get the document faxed back, or with shorter notice, Fed Ex the application and a $15 money order.

Health Certificate
A veterinarian certificate of health is also required and must be signed off by a veterinarian no more than 48 hours before checking into the Bahamas. Needless to say, this 48 hour limit is usually impossible to meet because of the unpredictability of a weather window. Do the best you can with this timing, knowing that Customs agents are aware that the 48 hour can be unrealistic.

Location of the check-in also may play a role in how smoothly the process goes. Have your paperwork in order, Rover and Felix vaccinated, and maybe even well groomed in case of physical inspection. Soon you all will be watching the sunsets together.

Vicki Lathom has written for ALL AT SEA since 2014.

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