The Exuma Islands: Fifty Shades of Blue
The Exuma Cays in the central Bahamas are some of the most beautiful islands you will come across. Not only are their beaches and anchorages picture-perfect but their people are friendly and welcoming. There are over 360 cays and islets that make up this chain covering over 100 miles of boundless blue sea. The islands are low-lying and made up of limestone and not volcanic lava as you might imagine. You will find soft white sand beaches; tall shady palm trees and lofty century plants growing amongst shrubs and cacti. Many plants and trees thrive despite only a thin soil over the limestone rock. But it’s the water stretching for miles in its sublime aquamarines and shades of pastel blues that evoke feelings of awe.
In an effort to protect some of this pristine beauty the Exumas Land and Sea Park was established. Set up to protect the diverse and rich marine life under the water as well as the endangered species above, the park is preserving the environment so future generations can enjoy it. The park encompasses 176 square miles; it covers a section of the Exumas that starts at Wax Cay Cut and runs 22-miles south to Conch Cut. Within the park boundaries a set of rules and regulations are in place to look after and protect the area.
These islands have a lot to offer the cruising sailor. On the windward side of the Exuma cays is Exuma Sound, a deep and wide body of water between Eleuthera and Cat Island. Here the seas can build up and caution should be taken when navigating the cuts between the islands. On the west side of the islands are the shallow banks and the generally more protected waters. Each Island has its own flavour and points of interest.
George Town, in Great Exuma, is the southernmost gathering point for many cruisers. Daily activities take place at Chat ‘n’ Chill or Volley Ball Beach on Stocking Island. Paths have been cut across the narrow strip of land to the more rugged beaches on the windward side. Boats anchor in the popular Elizabeth Harbour off Hamburger Beach, Volley Ball Beach, Sand Dollar Beach on Stocking Island or off George Town on Great Exuma.
Your draft dictates which islands you get to see on your way north and whether you take the inside or outside route. Perhaps you want to stop at a private island like Musha Cay, belonging to the famous illusionist David Copperfield, and find the underwater sculpture of a mermaid and full sized piano created for him by well-known sculptor Jason deCaires Taylor. Or explore the caves and snorkel the colourful coral heads off Rudder Cay. If you want to visit a local community in action, undeveloped by major tourism, then don’t miss Black Point on Great Guana Cay or Little Farmers Cay. Sample the local bread, try the local bars, visit the driftwood garden or do your laundry and catch up on Emails via wifi. If you fancy something a little more unusual then try the swimming pigs at Big Majors Spot or snorkel the underwater caves at Thunderball Grotto – the film site for not one but two James Bond films. Go at slack water and make sure you swim the vibrant coral around the outside of the grotto, too. Warderick Wells is the headquarters for the Exumas Land and Sea Park. If it’s natural beauty you want, the popular north mooring field is a palette of unsurpassed blues. Ashore, you can check out the skeleton of a 53ft sperm whale at Power Beach or look for the native hutia – a rodent-like animal. You can explore the myriad of trails that crisscross the island perhaps taking the Boo Boo trail to Boo Boo Hill on the eastern side where you pass a blowhole, or leave your boat name on a piece of driftwood at the top of Boo Boo Hill. At Allans Cay, you can mingle on the beach with the indigenous Rock Iguana. And if none of this satisfies and you simply want a stunning secluded beach where the sea gently laps the rippled shoreline, then Shroud Cay or Hawksbill Cay are spectacular.
Because the islands are made of limestone, the shorelines have been eroded by the elements leaving caves and blowholes which make for interesting exploration throughout the islands. There are miles of powdery beaches slipping into crystal-clear water waiting to be discovered and excellent snorkeling or diving opportunities at every corner. Sailing around the Exuma islands rivals some of the best in the world, so don’t leave it too long before you visit this stunning archipelago.
Rosie Burr has written for ALL AT SEA since 2010.
