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Thursday, April 18, 2024
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Beyond Nassau & Freeport: Unveiling the Bahamas’ Top 10 Cruising Gems

I was telling Lily about my time in the Bahamas, back in the day, and she asked which of the islands were my favorites. I explained there were over 700 islands, but they could be grouped together into 14 or so areas. That got me thinking this would make a great Top 10 article and here we are.

Remember these Top 10 articles are simply my opinion and if you have been to the Bahamas, you might put them in a different order. If you have never been then this might be a good overview of the country. I personally prefer more nature-oriented islands so both New Providence (with Nassau) and Grand Bahama (with Freeport) did not make the cut. Nor did Samana, Mayaguana, and Inagua islands, because they each only really have one anchorage and not much cruising. 

Andros - Swinging at Uncle Charlie's
Andros – Swinging at Uncle Charlie’s

10. Andros Island – This is simultaneously the largest and least visited island in the Bahamas. For some reason cruisers do not come here and that is a shame. Almost the entire west side has an amazing coral wall a mile offshore with wonderful snorkeling. The bottom half has three different bights going clear through to the other side of the island. At the village of Coakley, you can visit the Androsia Factory and there are also blue holes, Mennonite farms, and Morgan’s Cave to explore.

Come Explore the Sites of Andros Island

Shipwreck
Shipwreck

9. Bimini Islands – Straight across from Miami, and only a stone’s throw from the Gulf Stream, this small island group is a sport fisherman’s dream location. Don’t believe me, then trust the master of them all, Earnest Hemingway! Having drunk from the Fountain of Youth on South Bimini and snorkeled the SS Sapona shipwreck (the training target of the famed US Navy Flight 19) I loved waiting out a northerner here and it is a great introduction to the Bahamas.

Underwater Christmas Trees at Raccoon Cay
Underwater Christmas Trees at Raccoon Cay

8. Jumentos (Ragged) Islands – Starting between Grand Exuma and Long Islands this 60-mile-long chain stretches south halfway to Cuba. The Ragged Islands are a smaller version of the Exuma Island, which you will read about soon, except with no people until you get to the town of Duncan at the end of the chain. As long as you like beaches, snorkeling, sandy bays, blue holes, and palm trees you will love it here.

Relaxing at Big Gaulding Cay
Relaxing at Big Gaulding Cay

7. Berry Islands – Near Andros Island and the Bimini Islands is another small chain. At the north end you will find two islands cruise ships use for their guests and at the south end Chub Cay Resort and Marina. In between you will find a wonderful collection of private and public islands with deep water to the east, sand flats to the west, and hardly any other boaters around.

Front of Hermitage
Front of Hermitage

6. Cat, Conception, Rum, & San Salvador Islands – This “group” of islands is a bit different, because they are each separated by deep water. With that said they are still within 10-25 miles of each other. Each one has a special charm waiting to be discovered. Cat Island has the Hermitage Father Jerome built in the 1940’s as his retirement home. Conception Island is a national park with the interior containing an amazing tidal creek to explore. Rum Island has some amazing pre-Columbian petroglyphs, but it is the welcoming nature of the community you really want to experience. It is the last of this group, but first for Christopher Columbus as this is the first landing the great navigator made in the New World.

French Wells - Small Boat Channel
French Wells – Small Boat Channel

5. Acklins Island – This is a group of three small islands in the shape of a triangle with a shallow bay in the middle. What I loved about this group was finding my favorite lighthouse on Bird Rock Island, exploring the jail and church on Long Cay, the anchorage at French Wells, and the cherry on top is Hogsty Reef about 25 miles away. This is a 5-mile by 3-mile atoll right out of what you imagine the South Pacific to be like.

Long Island Lagoon
Long Island Lagoon

4. Long Island – For an island that only really offers two anchorages due to shallow water to the west and deep water to the east, there is a lot to do on Long Island. You have a choice between Christopher Columbus monuments, bat caves, beaches, the 2nd deepest blue hole in the world, amazing father Jerome built churches, old salt pans, and more. There is so much to see you will need at least two days with a car rental to even have a chance to take it all in.

3. Exumas Islands – Now we are to the cruising mecca of the Bahamas and it all starts with the anchorage off Stocking Island. The good news is that with 400+ boats comes an amazing cruising community and a daily list of activities available to participate in. As you move up the chain of islands you will find so many things to see. These notable highlights include Musician Mermaid underwater sculpture, Oven Rock Cave with water inside, Black Point settlement with Lorraine’s coconut bread and a blow hole, Thunderball Grotto made famous by a James Bond movie, swimming pigs, the Land & Sea Park, Shroud Cay with endless tidal creeks to explore, plane wreckage to snorkel, and iguanas. It is easy to spend a couple months in the chain alone.

Replacing the Windows on the Dodger

Guana Cay - Nipper's Tractor
Guana Cay – Nipper’s Tractor

2. Abaco Islands – The other popular cruising ground is the Sea of Abaco between Great Abaco Island and the barrier islands to the east. Here you will find one of the cutest tropical towns ever with a candy-striped lighthouse. From Hope Town you can head south to the Pelican Cays Land & Sea Park and the most amazing Little Harbour where you will feel years removed from the hustle and bustle of Marsh Harbour 10-15 miles away. Heading northwest you will find other wonderful settlements on Man-O-War Cay and Green Turtle Cay. The Sunday pig roast at Nipper’s is not to be missed and Double-Breasted Cay may be my favorite sand flats ever.

Glass Window
Glass Window

1. Eleuthera Island – As amazing as everything above is, they can’t compare with Eleuthera Island for me. Spanish Wells is as industrious as it is beautiful. The Devil’s Backbone is an exhilarating trip to Harbour Island with the famous pink sand. I had a blast swimming in Current Cut at 7-8 knots and the Glass Window is awesome. Heading down the narrow island is the extensive Hatchet Bay Cave and Ocean Hole in Rock Sound. In between are countless beaches to explore and the western side of the island is a huge shallow bay to sail.

The good part of doing a Top 10 for the Bahamas is I got to reminisce with Lily and get her excited to visit someday. The bad news is that I barely skimmed the top of how great this country is. In the future I plan on doing a Top 10 list for most of these island groups to deep dive into the magical cruising ground that is the Bahamas.

Eleuthera Bound

Captain Shane and Lily are back in the US and Mexico visiting family while they wait for hurricane season to end so they can continue to explore the Caribbean. Feel free to join their adventure on the web or social media at svGuidingLight.

Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour Reborn: A Total Transformation Unveiled

Set your course for the BVI’s Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour (VGYH), now the preeminent and most complete marina on the island. Over the last 18 months, there’s been a new management team hired, significant infrastructure work, and expanded marketing of the marina including a new website with a first-time online booking and payment platform. There’s also a new dinghy dock, significant improvements to the docks, new shops, a spa, new eateries including a coffee shop, and extensive landscaping and signage upgrades. This work will continue into 2024 with further enhancements in the boatyard as the property prepares for the hurricane hauling season that starts in June.

“One of the most exciting upgrades to VGYH is the addition of a seasonal calendar of events designed to attract visitors to the marina and Virgin Gorda while creating a new buzz for the destination,” says Russell Harrigan, secretary of the BVI Investment Club, whose portfolio includes VGYH, Village Cay Marina, Coralisle Insurance, and desalination company Ocean Conversion.

The calendar kicked off with a successful inaugural New Year’s Eve celebration, dubbed ‘More for 2024’. This event was built around the concept of sustainability and trash to treasure. Old cars, empty oil drums, used pallets, scrap wood, and old bicycles were among the décor items.

Destination: Virgin Gorda — Devil’s Bay and the Baths

Courtesy Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour
Courtesy Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour

The ‘More for 2024’ event spanned three main areas across the marina. First, the Children’s Village was hosted in the 9,000-square-foot supermarket building. Decorated with hundreds of Chinese paper lanterns, the space became a magical oasis that catered to children of all ages with festival food, face painting, basketball, swings, inflatables, air hockey, and more. The artist in residence, Tia Modeste, created numerous pieces of work, paintings on cars and bikes, backdrops, and several pieces for the children’s village. Most of these artworks will remain on permanent display at the marina, perfect for Instagram and other social media opportunities. The event also featured art by Tiea Lettsome and Allysa Kaddoura. The second space was dedicated to general admission, with the main stage and food and beverage vendors, while the third space, the rooftop offered a more intimate space and an ideal platform for viewing the fireworks. An incredible performance by USVI artists Rock City ended the evening. Plans are already in the works for New Year’s Eve 2024. www.vgyh.vg 

Land or Water? Flitescooter Takes E-Foiling to New Heights (and Makes it Easy!)

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It’s a bird, it’s a plane, no, it’s Fliteboard’s newest water toy – the Flitescooter. The Australian-based electric hydrofoil brand and creator of Fliteboard brought this new toy to market in May. The addition of removable handlebars and new technologies dramatically increases the ease of learning and riding a Flitescooter. It’s perfect for beginners with no watersports experience, families, and those looking for a more leisurely way to fly, with a more relaxed forward-facing riding position, mimicking that of a scooter or bike. What’s more, Flitescooter uniquely allows riders to eFoil without entering the water. This creates an elegant alternative for traveling from boat to dock to restaurant. Talk about making an entrance! Just step on and go. For riders looking to develop their skills, the removable handlebars enable the Flitescooter to be easily converted into a conventional Fliteboard for surf-style riding.

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“We are thrilled to offer riders a new way to fly with the global launch of Flitescooter. Since I developed the first Fliteboard prototype back in 2018, I have been working on ways to encourage my wife to join me on the water. Flitescooter is the solution. It’s so easy and forgiving to learn, yet offers similar thrills to Fliteboarding,” says David Trewern, chief executive officer, founder, and product architect.

In September, the Mettawa, IL-headquartered Brunswick Corporation acquired Fliteboard. Fliteboard will operate as a business within Mercury Marine.

“Fliteboard’s exceptional brand appeal and its advanced eFoiling technology align with our ACES (Autonomy/Assistance, Connectivity, Electrification, and Shared Access) strategy, and we are excited to bring the Fliteboard team into the Brunswick family, says Dave Foulkes, the Brunswick Corporation’s chief executive officer. “Fliteboard will allow us to engage with a new wave of customers who will also have the ability to enjoy the entire portfolio of Brunswick products and services over time.” global.fliteboard.com, www.brunswick.com

Grenada’s Underwater Sculpture Park Gets a Colorful Makeover with 31 New Figures!

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Dive in! Visitors to Grenada will soon be able to see 31 new sculptures in the Molinière Underwater Sculpture Park. The unveiling of the figures by the Grenada Tourism Authority in August is part of an upgrade initiative for the park, the world’s first of its kind, which celebrates artistic expression and cultural richness by embracing the preservation of marine life.

Renowned artist Jason deCaires Taylor, who created the first sculptures for the park in 2006, contributed another twenty-five in a collection titled ‘The Coral Carnival’. “The collection is steeply connected to the island’s unique culture and heritage, which includes sculpted pieces of the Jab Jab, Vieux Corps, Pretty Mas, Shortknee, and Wild Indian. What makes this installation especially unique is the painting of the sculptures that reflects the vibrancy of Spicemas, which is a first for me in this terrain,” says Taylor.

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Additionally, Taylor created two replacement sculptures, ‘The Lost Correspondent’ and ‘The Unstill Life,’ for the submerged gallery.

Artist, Troy Lewis, added a touch of local ingenuity by creating four mesmerizing sculptures – La Diablesse, Mama Glo, Bélé Dancer, and Leatherback Turtle.

Landlubbers can see the sculptures on display at Prickly Bay Marina until October 2023, after which they will be immersed underwater. www.puregrenada.com

Grenada Underwater Sculptures in Marine Protected Area

DIY: How to Build a Cutlass Bearing Extractor with Scrap Material

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As long-time cruisers we have fallen into the habit of doing (or at least attempting) most maintenance and repairs on our 35 year old aluminum-built S&S 41 “Pitufa” ourselves. Christian’s background is electrical engineering, so it was only logical for him to work on our electronic and electric systems, but over the years he also ventured into neighboring fields of expertise by watching mechanics and other experts at work and has become a jack of all technical trades. Initially the main idea was to go easy on the cruising kitty, but we found that DIY also saves time (good workmen tend to be booked out) and nerves (when our impatience clashes with the “mañana-mañana approach” of tropical paradises).

Block behind the bearing in front of tube. Press on the bearing and threaded bars to tighten the gadget. Photo by Birgit Hackl and Christian Feldbauer
Block behind the bearing in front of tube. Press on the bearing and threaded bars to tighten the gadget. Photo by Birgit Hackl and Christian Feldbauer

When we replaced our cutlass bearing 3 years ago, the only model available in the local chandlery then was all-rubber (nitrile). We didn’t think it was a bad idea at the time, but retrospectively we cursed our decision and would never buy one again–the damn thing turned out to be nearly impossible to get out again. Banging it with an array of ever-growing hammers we had to find out that the harder you hit rubber, the more violently it bounces back without budging the slightest bit. We grudgingly admitted defeat and went to find an expert to do the job with a professional extractor. Chasing mechanics we were put off to the afternoon/tomorrow/tomorrow, some never showed up, others insisted that we would have to remove the shaft in order to get to the cutlass bearing—a very complicated procedure on Pitufa that would require dismounting not only the aquadrive and gearbox on the engine side, but also the skeg on the outside! Soon we had half the yard standing around our Pitufa, discussing our problem and we heard advice from freezing the rubber with dry-ice, via melting it all the way, to cutting off the P-bracket and welding it back on. Half of the ideas required gadgets that were unavailable anyway and the rest seemed too extreme—no way would we cut off a piece of our beloved Pitufa and how would we make sure that the P-bracket was welded on perfectly aligned afterwards? No, an extractor still seemed like the most reasonable solution and if we could not find a mechanic with a professional tool, we would have to build one. We spent the evening watching youtube videos and found tutelage: smiling, confident-looking men effortlessly pulling off various designs of cutlass bearings. Neither of them was sweating and/or swearing, piece of cake, we’d simply do the same in the morning.

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Gradually tighten the nuts and counternuts. Photo by Birgit Hackl and Christian Feldbauer
Gradually tighten the nuts and counternuts. Photo by Birgit Hackl and Christian Feldbauer

We emptied our spare-part lockers, went through our scrap metal box and finally ransacked the piles of left-over material in the yard, but couldn’t find anything that resembled the sturdy metal plates the smug guys in the you-tube videos had used for their pullers. Finally Christian decided to tackle the problem with his Mad-Max engineering approach that has often proved successful in the past when make-shifting repairs underway. 

We would simply have to make due with what was available: 2 pieces of wood, 1 piece of steel tube, 2 threaded bars, 4 big washers and 6 nuts. We carefully arranged the make-shift gadget around the shaft, making sure that the wooden blocks were nicely parallel and the tube centered on the bearing. Once everything was in place, Christian slowly started tightening the nuts in turn along the thread, gradually increasing the pressure of the steel tube on the rubber. The nuts seized twice on the threaded bars, the wood started showing cracks and we were close to giving up, when suddenly the resistance was gone and the bearing started moving! Once it was loose, he could hammer against the tube and push it out of the P-bracket. Then he cut it open with a hacksaw and we could push in the new bearing!

Compass Bearing Tricks to Get you Home Safe

Once the bearing is dislodged, it can be hammered out. Photo by Birgit Hackl and Christian Feldbauer
Once the bearing is dislodged, it can be hammered out. Photo by Birgit Hackl and Christian Feldbauer

After wasting almost a week running after mechanics, it only took one hour to make-shift the puller and another hour to actually get off the bearing. We could have saved lots of nerves and yard fees, if we had relied on our own skills right from the start instead of wasting time wooing elusive workmen. The new cutlass bearing is made of acetal resin, will last much longer than the rubber model and should come off nicely once it is worn out (in the hopefully distant future).

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Christian and Birgit have set out cruising in 2011 from the Med and have by now repaired and make-shifted their way around half the globe. Learn more about their adventures on their blog www.pitufa.at or follow SY Pitufa on facebook. Their travel book “Sailing Towards the Horizon” is available on Amazon!

Luxury Catamarans Arrive in the Dominican Republic: Aquila Partners with Auto Marina

Now you can buy a luxury Aquila power catamaran in the Caribbean. The St. Petersburg, FL-based global leader in luxury multihull manufacturing, has teamed up with the Dominican Republic’s largest nautical company, Auto Marina. With three dealership locations in Santo Domingo, Boca Chica and Marina Chavón, Auto Marina now can sell the entire offshore, sport, and yacht line of Aquila power catamarans, from 28- up to 70-feet.

“We are excited to introduce our exceptional vessels to the Dominican Republic with our great partner, Auto Marina. Our expansion represents a commitment to providing boaters in this beautiful destination with the best in luxury, performance, and innovation. We look forward to contributing to the vibrant boating culture of the Dominican Republic and forging lasting relationships within the local community,” says Raul Bermudez, Aquila Sales Director for the Caribbean, South America, and Central America.

Auto Marina is a family business founded nearly a half-century ago that covers all segments of the marine market from boat sales to inboard or outboard motors, parts, and maintenance.

“With strong family values as one of our core values, we are happy to partner with the Aquila Power Catamarans brand not only because of the great boats they produce but also because they have continued to show their commitment to sticking with the values they started on. We can’t wait to see how much our customers will enjoy these vessels,” says Guillermo Augusto Gonzalez Baez, sales and service manager.

Aquila’s Bermudez adds, “Stay tuned for other dealer locations in the rest of the Caribbean.” www.aquilaboats.com, www.automarina.com.do 

Antigua Slipway Expands Capabilities: Largest Yacht Haul Yet Marks New Era

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The haul last March of the Island Escape Ferry set a new benchmark in Antigua & Barbuda’s marine capabilities. The lift happened at Antigua Slipway in English Harbor, where the installed and inaugurated cradle parameters measure an impressive 200 tons in weight, 200 feet in length overall, 40-foot beam, and 13-foot draft.

“We decided to reinvest in the marine railway because it is the only one in the region. Further, we want to nurture and service the classic yacht market and the marine railway is the preferred method of haul for any classic,” says Roberto Falangola, managing director. 

This cradle project was made possible through a collaboration between Jack Gifford Naval Architect Ltd., L & M Shipwright, and Antigua Slipway Ltd.

“We will be getting to 275 tons by March 2025,” Falangola adds. www.antiguaslipway.com 

Dominican Republic Oasis Awaits: Expanded Ocean World Marina Offers More Space, More Services for Your Vessel

There’s an extra good reason to make a stop on the Dominican Republic’s northern coast. Ocean World Marina & Boatyard, located in the Playa Cofresi in Puerto Plata, has expanded its boatyard to a total of over seven acres to safely accommodate 150 vessels. There’s also more room now to provide a variety of high-quality services that boaters need to maintain their vessels in perfect condition. 

“In addition to the expansion, we added a new crane and more boat stands. We can now handle vessels up to 70’ long, 19’ beam, and 70 tons of weight,” says Roberto Tejada, marine operations manager. “In 2024, we are exploring the option to acquire a lift to haul out catamarans.”

The Boatyard at Ocean World Marina is currently Expanding
The Boatyard at Ocean World Marina is currently Expanding

Ocean World Marina & Boatyard is a perfect rest stop and fuel stop for those cruising from or to the Turks and Caicos, Bahamas, and Puerto Rico. Discounts are offered to members of the Seven Seas Cruising Association, Ocean Cruising Club, ARC, NARC, Salty Dawgs, and Panama Posse. www.oceanworldmarina.com

Dive into Luxury: Cane Island Nicaragua 16 Year Rum Review

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We’ve recently become fans of Cane Island rums, giving their Venezuela and El Salvador blends 4 out of 5 in recent reviews. Most of the Cane Island rums offered locally have an age range of 3 – 8 years, so when we saw a Limited Edition Cane Island Nicaragua, aged 16 years and finished in Cognac Casks, we were all in.

Behind the Brand

The company behind Cane Island is Infinity Spirits, a rum branding company from Rotterdam, Netherlands. They help companies create a brand that fills “…the gap between private labels and well-known rum brands…” Cane Island chooses countries with “a long history in rum production, with their styles and traditions.” Depending on the partnerships they have created in those countries, the rum is branded as a “Single Island,” meaning from multiple distilleries on the island or a “Single Estate” from only one distillery. All rums are tropically aged locally in wooden casks, allowing the heat of the Caribbean to intensify the interaction between the rum and the wood.

Nicaraguan Sugar Cane Legacy:

Nicaragua’s sugar cane history dates back to the Spanish colonial era of the 16th century. By the end of the 19th century, sugarcane represented a significant part of the country’s economy. The rich volcanic soil, consistent tropical temperatures, and a modest rainy season produce the growing conditions ideal for sugarcane. The first distillery in Nicaragua was built in 1890 at the base of the San Cristobal volcano, the tallest and most active volcano in Nicaragua. Today, that distillery is known as Compañia Licorera, home to two of Nicaragua’s emblematic brands, Mombacho and Flor de Cana. 

Evaluating the Limited Edition:

Cane Island Nicaragua Limited Edition, aged 16 years, is listed as a Single Estate, using rums from only one distillery. The rum is distilled in a column still using a molasses base, then tropically aged (locally) for up to 16 years in white oak casks. It is then finished in handpicked cognac barrels. It’s not clear if the finishing is in Nicaragua. The rum is bottled in Amsterdam by Infinity Spirits.

Tasting Notes:

The thick, dark amber color clings to the glass, leaving long, slow lacing. The nose is smooth and full of fruit, revealing candied cherry, papaya, and mango. The sip is heavy, coating the entire palate and then depositing the sweet fruit on the front of the palate while a spice develops on the roof of the mouth. Once we swallow, the spice follows while leaving the fruit on the front of the palate. The spice, possibly from the oak casks, carries to the finish, leaving us to continue to enjoy the fruit on the palate. The spice smooths out, leaving a long and satisfying finish. We continue back for more to experience the tale of two rums again. It doesn’t disappoint.

Verdict:

Cane Island Nicaragua 16 Limited Edition pulls many notes from the cognac casks. It is no coincidence that Compañia Licorera is home to Flora de Cana. At $45/bottle, Cane Island rivals our review of Flora de Cana.

4.5 of 5

About Clint and Terry: We have sampled many a dram over our 33 years of marriage and quite often we don’t fully agree. Could be the difference is male/female taste buds. Or, somebody is just wrong.

From High School Sweethearts to Sailing Scoundrels: 53 Years of Love, Laughter, and a Little Chaos

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In 1952 a girl was born in Chicago to immigrant parents—with her whole life neatly laid out for her. She was to study hard and marry well—meaning she was supposed to wed a union electrician with an ‘A’ card (like her father). Once married, she was to have children and live a block or two away from her parents on the South Side. She was, in essence, supposed to live a life of wedded bliss boredom. 

Thus, her whole life was to be focused on two things—security and money. Successful people owned their own home—losers didn’t. And her hardworking parents clearly didn’t want their daughter to be a loser. They kept her on a tight leash—and only gave her an allowance of pennies. 

In order to earn some spending money, she began to sew custom doll clothes for her girlfriends. 

This isn’t easy for two reasons—one, doll clothes are small and, two, sewing machines don’t shrink to suit the project. It’s like using a large paint brush to draw a fine-lined postage stamp. 

But she did, as requested, worked hard—not only at sewing but at everything else as well. She was a straight A student and a girl scout with a million merit badges. 

In many ways, she was the girl that every parent at Gage Park High School wanted their child to be—an exemplary student and an exemplary human being. 

Gage Park was a huge school. I think there were 1,000 people in her freshman class. I was one. But I didn’t make it. Not only did I leave early, but to my eternal embarrassment, I failed English, the only subject I cared about.  ;-(

Part of the reason was that I began working as a professional actor. But another reason was because, at 15 years of age, I purchased a William Atkins’ double ender—a 24-foot wooden sloop built in 1932. I paid $200 for her, every cent I had. Why so little? Because the in-the-water vessel had been broken into, looted, trashed, wrecked, and used as a gang hangout for illiterates. Illiterates? Yeah, they’d spray-painted the word FOCK inside the cabin—as well as pooping in the bilge and ripping up the interior to make a fire in the bilge in order to stay warm in winter.

Carolyn is a hard worker
Carolyn is a hard worker

I didn’t have any money after the purchase—so I considered what I could do to improve my brand new 36-year-old woodie besides replacing the seven rotten planks or sister the 12 rotten frames. Oh, and replace the engine and find a rig. 

My mother had just been given a bolt of fabric and she suggested curtains as a way of inexpensively sprucing up the old girl. 

So, I borrowed a spoon and returned to my vessel—to spoon out the feces in the bilges. 

Occasionally I’m paid to give talks at boat shows—once I was paid $5,000 for an hour’s work—and I always say, “First, spoon the feces out of your bilge—you shouldn’t circumnavigate until you do so!”

Good advice. 

But the second thing I did back in early 1968 was to contact Little Miss Goody-Two-Shoes about sewing me up some curtains… if she could find time from her job, merit badges, and advanced placement classes. 

The only thing she knew about me was that I was a drop-out who ran with the wrong crowd. (The only friends I had that hadn’t already OD’d were in jail!) 

When she came out to North Avenue and the north fork of the Chicago River to see the boat, she was totally puzzled. 

“Are you nuts?” she asked when she saw Corina. “Why? Why would anyone buy such a collection of lumber?”

“Oh, you know,” I said breezily, “to sail around the world, write a book about it, and live happily-ever-after.” 

“On this?” she laughed, looking at my boat. “Fatty, you can’t even stand up!”

It was true. Corina barely had sitting headroom—she lacked standing headroom by nearly two feet. 

I put the best spin I could on it by saying, “Well, if I wanted to stand tall with other rich yachts, perhaps this isn’t the best boat. But if I was, say, focused on horizontal activities… she’s freak’n perfect!”

Now I tell this story in two different ways—both of which are true. 

The first version is that she sewed my curtains and I didn’t have the money to pay her at the time. And the darn gold-digger has been hanging around for 55 years, two dozen hurricanes, a number of sinkings, and four circs to get her money. 

The second version, equally true, is that she kept coming down to re-measure the curtains—and to measure the mattresses, sail covers, etc. And I began to think that maybe she wasn’t so smart. I hadn’t even paid her for the first job and she was already on her fifth group of measurements. 

It was a hot day in August when she brought down the leeclothes she’d whipped up and we were both sweating as we fitted the canvas to the bunks. I decided to take off my tee-shirt (I had rock-hard abs back in those days) and while doing so I had an epiphany. There was somebody aboard that wasn’t too bright or perceptive—but it wasn’t my future wife, Carolyn.

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In Tonga, Carolyn studied basket weaving
In Tonga, Carolyn studied basket weaving

Now, of course, being a gentleman, I said, “Marry me! We’ll elope and sail down to the Caribbean—where your cement-shoe-toting Italiano parents will never be able to find us!”

“Ah, gee,” Carolyn said. “I’m only sixteen—and I’d like to finish high school before hearing wedding bells.” 

Of course, I thought to myself, “…how freak’n middle class! Am I sure I want to get hooked up with such a conservative thinker?”

Nonetheless I decided to wait for her—and as she returned to reality while I slipped free of it forever by sailing off into sea-gypsy-hood. 

I left for my summer cruise of the Great Lakes with 186 pennies and two ravenous crewmembers who’d just jumped bail—both so dumb, they viewed me as their meal ticket. Crazy!

On the other side of Lake Michigan from Chicago was a wealthy little town called Saugatuck that was filled with well-off teenage girls whose parents wanted to get them away from the bad boys of summer in Chicago—surprise!

I was a true hippie (still am) and thus I started making silver spoon jewelry which, darn it, sold too fast. Nonetheless, I told everyone I’d spend every penny I made each day by dawn tomorrow—and I kept scrupulously to that promise.  

In order to meet demand for my creations, I forced my customers to help craft their items. Soon, I was making money hand-over-fist which, unexpectedly, forced me to have a mammoth dock party each evening to burn away my profits with Boones Farm, Ripple, and far worse. 

Having a successful business boosted my ego—so I decided, as one does, to invent my own religion as well. I called it Green-Slime because the crude altar I’d constructed had burning/popping green slime (soaked in kerosene) from the harbor mixed with pieces of copper tube that glowed bluish green during the popping of the slime. 

Remember, this was 1969 and the Beatles were in India with a groovy spiritual guru—hoping to find a shortcut to God. That’s right—it was an oddly spiritual time, and if you don’t believe me—just ask Timothy Leary. 

Anyway, that evening as I was massaging green slime around on the body parts of a pair of blond twins, I had a full-on religious experience. It started with a heavenly noise, then a pulsating celestial (bluish) light from the cosmos—then FAR F’N OUT, God Himself spoke. 

I was gobsmacked!

“Put your hands in the air,” God said. “You are under arrest!”

Oops!

Darn! It wasn’t God, it was the Saugatuck sheriff and his gun-toting lackeys.

Everywhere we sail, Carolyn learns a new skill
Everywhere we sail, Carolyn learns a new skill

And as he dragged me to the jail house with my entourage screaming that there was “no jail in the Midwest that could hold Fatty Goodlander.” Well, the thought entered my head that if Carolyn had been with me, perhaps I wouldn’t have been arrested?

Carolyn, meanwhile, was named valedictorian of Gage Park High and as such gave the keynote address during her 1970 graduation. However, Mr. Hahn, the principal of the school, was horribly paranoid. He demanded to see her speech—after all, this was during the height of the VietNam war—and pinko-commies were hiding under every rock.  

Luckily, her speech was mild—and even Mister Hahn couldn’t find anything to complain about as he returned the speech, neatly typed on green typing paper. 

Of course, when the big day came, Carolyn took out her green speech, waved it at the principal to see—then read her anti-war red speech as the principal howled, “Shut off the microphone! I want that miscreant’s head on my deck RIGHT NOW!”

But the moment she completed her speech, she tossed both copies in the air—and ran down the center aisle as fast as her little legs could carry her. 

I, by prearrangement, was tacking back and forth just off the Chicago waterfront. Carolyn banged out of the school at a full-tilt-boogie… and then, with a mighty leap… leapt over downtown… and landed with a graceful thud on my foredeck. 

“Trim, trim,” I shouted as we hardened up (on all levels) and lived happily ever after. 

That was 53 years ago and we just celebrated our 53rd anniversary. We’ve almost never been apart since those romantic days—through numerous sinkings and decades long spans of abject poverty—but not one single arrest. (Yes, it’s nice to be right.)

And she’s not just my wife—she’s my best friend, my lover, and mother to our wonderful child as well. We were so young when we hooked up. In a way, we raised each other during hundreds of thousands of sea miles, 53 years of living aboard, and four circs. I literally could not have become me (let alone stay out jail) without her. She’s immeasurablely improved my life—and I tell her that every single day, not merely on our anniversaries. 

Here’s the bottom line—I’ve only really done two things right in life—saying, “I” and “do” to Carolyn were both of them.

Fatty and Carolyn are still in Singapore with the daughter and two grandkids—shamelessly mooching off gullible members of the Changi Sailing Club. 

The Moorings BVI: Exciting Upgrades and Fleet Expansion in the British Virgin Islands

Hot on the heels of The Moorings earning the 2023 TripAdvisor Travelers’ Choice Award for the third time, the world’s premier yacht charter company has also finished several upgrades to its flagship marina and fleet in the British Virgin Islands. In a nutshell, The Moorings BVI has undergone a complete transformation in the past few years.

“The impact of Hurricane Irma forced us to completely rebuild the facility, but it offered a unique opportunity to reimagine the possibilities for our guests. Today, we are thrilled to unveil the fruits of our labor,” says Ian Pedersen, senior marketing manager of the Clearwater, Florida-headquartered company.

Dive Shop. Courtesy The Moorings BVI
Dive Shop. Courtesy The Moorings BVI

New on-site is the Moorings Market. Fresh fruits and vegetables, deli meats, baked goods, and more, plus an extensive selection of wines and spirits are available in-store or for online ordering for pick up. Sail Caribbean Divers, a longstanding Moorings partner, has relocated to the large conference space adjacent to the hotel’s front deck, making it more convenient to pick up last-minute water sports items. Charlie’s Restaurant, at the Mariner Yacht Club Hotel, has re-opened, with a revamped menu and full bar.

Expanded Liquor Selection. Courtesy The Moorings BVI
Expanded Liquor Selection. Courtesy The Moorings BVI

On the fleet front, sailing catamarans are now predominantly new yachts, from the Moorings 4200 to the larger Moorings 4500, and flagship Moorings 5000, each of which won the prestigious ‘Boat of the Year’ honors upon launch. The power catamaran fleet currently features 3 distinct yacht types to accommodate groups of all sizes: the 3-cabin Moorings 403PC, the 4-cabin 464PC, and the larger 4-cabin 534PC. The Moorings also continues to invest in the monohull fleet, with up to 12 brand-new yachts of varying sizes scheduled for delivery this fall. www.moorings.com 

Boston Whalers Make Waves for Good: Rendezvous Raises Thousands for Abaco Special Needs School

They gave as good as they got! Boston Whaler owners rafted up in the Bahamas this summer for the annual Abaco Owner Rendezvous. In addition to enjoying their custom-crafted vessels in the beauty of the islands, owners shared their passion for philanthropy. Specifically, the group gave back by supporting Every Child Counts through a charity event that raised thousands of dollars for children with special needs. Every Child Counts is a private school located in Abaco that focuses on providing an alternative learning environment. Founded more than 20 years ago, the organization is the only resource of its kind serving the entire Abaco Island chain. It is fully funded by donor support and events like the Boston Whaler charity event helped to secure the needed investment to continue positively impacting students. 

Top Destinations in the Northern Abacos, Part 1

“When our owners get together, it’s always a meaningful opportunity to connect and share our passion for on-water adventure, but being able to give back and see the generosity of owners through this event is truly heartwarming,” said Lenn Scholz, president of Edgewater, Florida-headquartered Boston Whaler. “Every Child Counts is a one-of-a-kind organization and to be able to contribute to the future of its mission through the fun of the Abaco Owner Rendezvous is truly fulfilling. We look forward to seeing how they expand year-over-year and grow their impact on students’ lives.” www.Facebook.com/ECCAbaco, www.bostonwhaler.com 

Christmas Bird Count at Sea

Mega Yacht Makeover: Puerto Rico Hooks Big Fish with New $15M Marina

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Puerto Rico is going after a piece of the mega yacht pie in a big way. In November, the island’s government inked a deal with Dallas, Texas-headquartered Safe Harbor Marinas, LLC, to build a new marina spanning a little over 16 acres and located in the two docks in Old San Juan that currently dock superyachts. The new facility will dock six yachts at a time, plus offer shore power, water connections, pump-out service, and high-speed internet. Safe Harbor Marinas is expected to invest $12-$15 million in the project. In turn, they will receive a 40-year concession lease agreement from Puerto Rico’s Port Authority, $200,000 in rental fees, share 5% of gross income from the Authority and 5% net profits from fuel sales. The lucrative deal also includes the construction of recreational facilities, retail outlets, a business center, repair services, and a boat supply store. Currently, some 30 megayachts visit Puerto Rico annually. Officials are hoping this new marina project will attract up to 200 a year, generating a multi-million boost in economic activity for the island. The project’s first phase is expected to be in operation by the end of 2024 and the second phase open a year later. This new project will mark the second marina in Puerto Rico for Safe Harbor Marinas. In 2021, the company acquired Marina Puerto del Rey, the largest marina in the Caribbean. shmarinas.com 

Sailing with Charlie: Mega Yacht Charters

7 Reasons to Ship Your Yacht Between the Caribbean & Europe/USA Safely and Efficiently

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The demand for yacht transport between the Caribbean and the U.S.A. and Europe is on the rise. This is especially true for a broad range of racing, cruising, charter, and private yachts of all sizes. International shipping companies, such as Sevenstar Yacht Transport, are leading the way in providing fast, efficient, and safe delivery options. Notable is that the Amsterdam-headquartered shipping company is the first to receive certification for its transport cradles from Lloyd’s Register.

“Over the years, we’ve seen more people interested in this transportation solution,” says Sanne van den Heuvel, trade manager for the U.S. and Caribbean. “Time is one of the most valuable commodities for owners and crew. Time savings, as well as saving the wear and tear a vessel on its own hull might receive in potentially choppy Atlantic Ocean waters, are the top reasons we see increased interest in yacht transport.”

In the spring months of March, April, and May, when many yachts leave the Caribbean, Sevenstar offers several sailings in two options of routes. These are from the Caribbean to Northern Europe or the Mediterranean, and from the Caribbean to the U.S. East Coast. Sevenstar loads vessels from ports in St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands; Le Marin, Martinique; and St. John’s, Antigua. 

Sevenstar has divisions within its company, including ded-icated teams for racing and sport fishing yachts, that cater to these client-centric needs of different types of yachts.

“One trend we see and are offering is more specialized sailings in terms of timing. In the past, there was quite a wide window. Today, while we do have a fixed schedule, we can also adjust our schedules based on feedback when talking with our clients. For example, we might have a big group of racing yachts that want to leave the Caribbean to get to Europe in time for a specific regatta or regattas, and we can adjust to fit these needs. That’s the benefit of the company having 120 vessels worldwide,” says Sander Speet, who handles racing yacht logistics for Sevenstar and hands-on attends Caribbean regattas such as the RORC Caribbean 600.

Sevenstar has opened a new office in Palma de Mallorca, the destination of many race yachts coming from the Caribbean.

New in 2024, Sevenstar is the Official Yacht Transport Partner of the Viking Explorers Rally. The event departs in January from the Canary Islands en route to Grenada. More cruising yachts are now seeing the advantages of shipping their vessels back across the Atlantic in the late spring.

5 Top Pre-Loading Tips to Ship Your Yacht

Like hauling a yacht for yard work or storage, or winterizing in colder climates, there are points owners and crews can do to prepare their yacht for transport. Companies like Sevenstar send complete checklists to their clients once a sailing is scheduled as a preparation guide. Here is an example of five tips for pre-loading at the marina:

  1. Lighten your Load: Ensure there is a minimum of fuel on board and that water tanks are empty.
  2. Battan Down Below Decks: Make sure every-thing is stowed away. Lock cabinet doors and consider taping them shut to prevent items from falling out on the passage.
  3. Remove Your Backstay. Monohull sailing yachts need their backstays removed upon loading, otherwise, the spreader of the crane can get to the boat’s center of gravity, which is behind the mast. After loading, re-install the backstay.
  4. Tie Down the Dinghy. Secure the dinghy tightly upside-down on the deck, or better yet deflate it, fold it, and stow it down below with the outboard engine.
  5. Protect Deck Hardware. Cover winches and furling systems, for example, and tape them off or protect them with wax or Vaseline against salt spray and dust.

MarineMax Vacations Enhances BVI Marine Tech Skills with Specialized Workshops

Boats break. Marine technicians help fix them. Thanks to MarineMax Vacations Ltd, professional marine technicians in the BVI are even better prepared. In August, the company sponsored four training workshops. These workshops focused on in-depth training and certifications for the diagnosis, maintenance, and repair of Webasto Air Conditioning, Spectra Water Makers, and Kohler Marine Generators as well as featured classes on electrical systems and diesel engines. The training was held at the Centre for Applied Marine Studies at the H. Lavity Stoutt Community College on Tortola.

“We are honored to support the technical proficiency of marine technicians in the BVIs. Along with our partners at Nanny Cay, our commitment to providing exceptional service extends beyond our charter guests to the wider maritime community in the BVIs as well. By offering these tech workshops, we aim to help support those looking to expand their knowledge and elevate their skills. This contributes to safer and more enjoyable guest experiences across the entire charter industry,” says Phil Underwood, MarineMax Fleet Support Manager.

MarineMax Vacations is a premier provider of luxury power catamaran yacht charters in the BVI. www.marinemax.com/vacations 

New Marine Technology Program at Warner University

Caribbean Yacht Charter Vacation: 6 Tips for Choosing the Perfect Experience

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Long gone are the days when chartering a yacht to sail the Caribbean is akin to the plot of the 1992 comedy movie, Captain Ron. Today, it’s luxury yachts rather than lemons, professional rather than rum-soaked crew, and a pleasure cruise rather than pursuit by pirates. It’s no wonder that the global yacht charter market size is expected to reach $10.2 billion by 2027, spurred by travelers’ interest in luxury marine tourism and personalized services, according to the Yacht Charter Market Size, Share & Trends Analysis Report, by Grand View Research. 

Here are six tips to help choose the perfect Caribbean yacht charter vacation:

1. When to Go?

Many people choose to enjoy a Caribbean charter vacation from November through April, according to Carol Hansen, digital marketing, content, and creative manager for Annapolis, MD-headquartered Dream Yacht Worldwide, with Caribbean bases in the U.S. and British Virgin Islands, St. Martin, Martinique, Guadeloupe, and Grenada, as well as Cuba and Belize. “These months are slightly cooler with less rainfall.” 

Keep in mind that everyone else wants a piece of this prime time in paradise too, so expect more crowds and busier waters. 

“If you want to dodge the crowds, the quieter months of May and November could be your hidden treasure. Referred to as the shoulder season, this time of year often has more affordable rates and quieter anchorages since it’s the off-season,” says Susan Restauri, senior project manager for Waypoints Yacht Charters, in Annapolis, MD, with Caribbean bases in the U.S. and British Virgin Islands. 

Courtesy Waypoints Yacht Charters
Courtesy Waypoints Yacht Charters

2. Where to Go?

Roughly 80% percent of the Caribbean’s charter yachts are based in the U.S. and British Virgin Islands, says Carol Kent, president and owner of Carol Kent Yacht Charters International in Marblehead, MA. “This area is ideal for island hopping, snorkeling, and diving. Each island offers different vibes, cuisine, and entertainment along with good anchorages. First-time charterers are delighted with the short cruising distances. Also, both have the most charter yacht selections when planning your vacation.”

For more experienced sailors or charterers, discover another area such as St Martin/St Barth’s and Anguilla as this makes for a great week, recommends Sarah Sebastian, director and charter specialist with Nicholson Yacht Charters & Services, based in English Harbour, Antigua. “We also have the Southern Caribbean, which is my absolute favorite, from St Lucia south. St Vincent is an excellent place to board or Canouan in the heart of the Grenadines.”

St. Vincent and the Grenadines are a more challenging sail. However, says Lesley Hayes, crewed yacht specialist at Horizon Yacht Charter’s base in St. Vincent & the Grenadines. However, “the islands are less crowded and more unspoiled. I would definitely recommend the Grenadines once sailors have a couple of years of skippering experience under their belts.”

Courtesy Waypoints Yacht Charters
Courtesy Waypoints Yacht Charters

3. Bareboat or Crewed?

Bareboat versus a crewed charter is like comparing camping to a stay at the Ritz, describes Dick Schoonover, manager of the crewed yacht clearinghouse, CharterPort BVI, in Tortola. “Perhaps the ritual of getting up in the morning and making coffee yourself is something you relish. Or would you prefer to softly awaken to the aromas of freshly brewed java wafting through the air, the morning’s fresh grind already prepped by your top-notch charter chef? Meanwhile, your affable captain has already checked the anchor, hauled in, or stowed whatever water sports gear may have been in use, and is prepping your yacht for the next day!  Easy-peazy!  On a crewed yacht charter, all you have to do is determine how much milk or sweetener you want in that first cuppa joe.”

Crewed yacht charters are usually ‘all inclusive’ in pricing, meaning the crew, including everything from navigating to cooking and cleaning, and water toys on board, are included in the prize. Bareboaters need to provision, cook, and clean on their own. Water toys are often an extra charge.

Generally speaking, experienced skippers prefer to bareboat, says Horizon Yacht Charter’s Hayes. “We occasionally do get experienced skippers choosing crewed charters for special occasions, or skippered charters if chartering a larger yacht than they are used to sailing. If you have no sailing experience, then you have to have a skipper or crew onboard.”

Courtesy Dreamyacht Charters
Courtesy Dreamyacht Charters

4. Monohull or Multihull?

Monohulls offer a classic sailing experience with their traditional design and excellent upwind performance, says Waypoints Yacht Charters’ Restauri. “They can provide a more intimate connection with the sea and are often favored by experienced sailors. Multihulls, such as catamarans, offer stability, spaciousness, and shallow drafts that allow you to access shallower anchorages. They’re great for those who might be prone to seasickness and those who prefer more space and comfort. Your choice should depend on your sailing preferences and comfort priorities.”

Photo courtesy of Carol Kent Yacht Charters International
Photo courtesy of Carol Kent Yacht Charters International

5. Power or Sail?

Motor yachts offer a lot of freedom timewise, says Nicholson Yacht Charters’ Sebastian. “They are fast and stable and can get to the destination very fast, giving more time for watersports, shore excursions and just relaxing in a picturesque anchorage. Motor yachts are more expensive as fuel and food are always extras, they usually have more crew than a monohull or multihull, so the service is 5-star star.  They nearly always have motorized watersports equipment and trained crew to teach guests how to use it safely. Motor yachts do make a great option to charter for a group of friends or a family.”

On the other hand, “sailing offers a quieter and more eco-friendly experience, allowing you to savor the journey and the beauty of the surroundings. If you’re looking for a leisurely and immersive experience, sailing might be the way to go,” says Waypoints’ Restauri.

Photo courtesy of Carol Kent Yacht Charters International
Photo courtesy of Carol Kent Yacht Charters International

6. Bring the Kids?

The idea of yachting with youngsters and teens sometimes gives parents pause: What if they get bored? What if they need to be constantly supervised? What about the internet for entertainment? says Carol Kent Yacht Charters International’s Kent. “Yachting with babes to teens, each age group requires thoughtful packing and planning. Whether you hire a nanny for the babes or take your teens on a magical week of hiking, swimming off your boat, fishing, and using water toys, this vacation beats Disney!”

Essentially the yacht is a huge playground for kids with swimming and watersports every day, theme nights, and treasure hunts, adds Nicholson’s Yacht Charter’s Sebastian. “Crew love to have families with children onboard. Children also gain a whole new wealth of experience without even knowing it and a very healthy respect for the water.”

Exploring BVI’s Rum Heritage: Soggy Dollar Bar’s Platinum Rum Review

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For our 25th anniversary, we made our second trip to the British Virgin Islands (BVI). After a great downwind sail from Anegada, we anchored in White Bay and swam up to Soggy Dollar Bar to enjoy an original Painkiller made with Pussers rum. The current owner of Soggy Dollar launched its own rum line, recently adding a Platinum to join the already competitive silver rum market. 

The history of Jost Van Dyke dates back to the early 1600s when Dutch pirate Joost Van Dyk led an attack on a Spanish treasure fleet, resulting in a full Spanish attack on the island of Tortola. Van Dyk fled Tortola to a small island five miles away that would later bear his name. In 1672, the English captured the BVIs from the Dutch. Three hundred years later, the beaches of White Bay became home to the Soggy Dollar Bar, the birthplace of the original Painkiller.

Jerry O’Connell and his family purchased Soggy Dollar Bar and the adjoining Sandcastle Hotel in 2005. O’Connell knew he was not just buying a piece of property but rather a lifestyle. His staff has created a worry-free atmosphere where guests can leave their stress behind and truly be free.

In 2019, it seemed natural for O’Connell to start a rum production company beginning with Dark and Golden rums. The recently launched Platinum blends Caribbean rums, distilled four times with natural sugar cane molasses from the first press. Unfortunately, it is not disclosed where Soggy Dollar is sourced, distilled, or bottled.

Neat

The nose is very light with a smooth, pleasant aroma. We detect a bit of vanilla and coconut husk. The palate highlights the coconut husk, with the vanilla coming in on the finish. There is no alcohol burn from nose to finish.

Next

We used the Classic Daiquiri recipe, which lets a rum shine. We compared Soggy Dollar to Bacardi Superior, Terry’s favorite in the Daiquiri Challenge.

CLASSIC DAIQUIRI

  • 2 ounces light Rum
  • 1 ounce fresh lime juice
  • ½ ounce simple syrup
  • Shake and serve in a martini glass.

Soggy Dollar Daiquiri

The lime is the star of this cocktail, with the vanilla and coconut husk notes from the rum keeping the ego of the lime in check. The drink is refreshing and addicting, sending us back for more on these hot summer days. We loved that the rum had a co-star role in the glass.

Bacardi

Terry began with the Bacardi and was reluctant to turn it over to Clint. The vanilla note of the Bacardi softens the lime and uses the other rum characteristics to enhance the citrus. This creates a smooth drink that goes down quickly. 

Overall

These are two completely different drinks, with Terry favoring the smoother Bacardi cocktail while Clint enjoyed the Soggy Dollar cocktail, where the lime and rum shine. At $26.99/bottle, $15.00 more than the Bacardi, we’ll leave it to you to decide if it’s worth the difference.

About Clint and Terry: We have sampled many a dram over our 33 years of marriage and quite often we don’t fully agree. Could be the difference is male/female taste buds. Or, somebody is just wrong.

Registration is Open! 50th St. Thomas International Regatta Set for Easter Weekend – March 29-31, 2024

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St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands. Celebrate the 50th anniversary of the ‘Crown Jewel’ of Caribbean Racing! Registration is now open for the 2024 St. Thomas International Regatta (STIR) (yachtscoring.com/emenu.cfm?eid=16227), set for Easter Weekend, March 29-31, 2024. First held in October 1974, and started by St. Thomas Yacht Club (STYC) organizers to attract top international sailors to race in ideal sailing conditions, STIR continues to be the destination for world-class racing. The chance to trade tacks and tactics with professional crews and talented weekend warriors on professionally set round-the-island and round-the-buoy courses attracts first-timers and keeps long-time competitors coming back. What’s more, register also for the Round the Rocks Race (RTR) (yachtscoring.com/emenu.cfm?eid=16226), which will circumnavigate the neighboring island of St. John on March 28. RTR is a terrific opportunity to tune up for STIR and provides an additional chance to land a podium finish. Add the one-stop venue at the STYC, which celebrates 60 years in 2024, with its quintessential beachfront Caribbean vibe and organizers ‘can do’ attitude toward competitors, and it’s easy to see how STIR earned its motto, ‘We Love It Here’ You will too!

“For a half-century, STIR has been a beacon that attracts some of the best sailors, everyone from America’s Cup, Olympic, and one-design World Champions to long-time podium-placing teams from the Caribbean and the U.S. with second and third generations as crew. The polish on this ‘Crown Jewel’ comes from professionally set courses by some of the best race management in the world matched with friendliness, hospitality, and an equally popular club-run event ashore,” says Pat Bailey, who co-directs STIR 2024 with Greer Scholes. “We invite you to register now and race and celebrate with us in March.”

45% Discount on Early Registration

Everyone is invited! STIR 2024 invites CSA (Caribbean Sailing Association-handicap rule), racing, cruising, and bareboat classes; ORC; Large Multihulls; Hobie Waves; and One-Design classes with a minimum length of 20 feet. Register now for STIR 2023: yachtscoring.com/emenu.cfm?eid=16227. Pay only U.S. $200, or 45% off the regular entry fee, between now and January 31, 2024. From February 1 to March 28, 2024, the entry fee increases to U.S. $370. The entry fee for IC24s is U.S. $260 and for Hobie Waves U.S. $180. A limited number of IC24s and Hobie Waves are available for charter.

Early bird registrants can win customized long-sleeve high-performance team shirts! The name of your registered vessel may be randomly drawn to win this highly coveted prize. The drawing will take place on December 1, 2023.

Charter or BYOB

Chartering makes it especially easy to fly in, jump on a race-ready yacht, and sail! Over half a dozen outfits are offering vessels to charter. for STIR 2024.

One of these is the St. Thomas Sailing Center (STSC) (stthomassailingcenter.com/st-thomas-international-regatta), with its fleet of IC24s. There are a limited number of IC24s available for race charter for STIR 2024. The charter fee is U.S. $3200 with sails. The fee includes the use of an IC24 for the Friday through Sunday event, a practice day on Thursday, and a 30-day membership at the STYC. New for 2024, the STSC is introducing its ‘STIR: Race with a Pro’ option. A limited number of boats have been reserved to participate in this, with an onboard day-and-a-half coaching clinic on March 27 and 28. Teams will practice with a professional coach, who will also race with them in STIR. The clinic portion will be mostly on-the-water practice but will also consist of lectures and video debriefs from cameras on each boat using high-level coaching software. There is also an option for full teams to participate in the clinic without an onboard professional coach. These teams can attend morning briefings, participate in a portion of the drills on the water, and sit in on afternoon debriefs. The cost of the ‘STIR: Race with a Pro’ option is $2500 for an individual and $7000 for a team (maximum weight of 850 pounds including coach), and these prices include the boat charter and sails. The price for the clinic only is $1500 and is for full teams only. The clinic-only fee does not include the boat charter. To reserve, Email: info@stthomassailingcenter.com or call (340) 690-3681.

“What St. Thomas has is premier sailing at a premier venue. Club racers to lifelong professional sailors all compete against each other at one of St. Thomas Yacht Club’s biggest events of the year – STIR. Come March, put down that snow shovel or even just put that sweater away, grab some sunscreen and shorts, and head south to sail pristine blue waters in fifteen to thirty knots of breeze!,” invites Robert ‘Bobby’ Brooks, STSC director.

Beyond this, the J/120, J-aguar, which won its class at Antigua Sailing Week this year, is available for charter for STIR 2024 from www.caribbeanraces.com or Email: mrbenjelic@gmail.com.

LV Yachting, based in the UK, is offering five vessels for charter: Pata Negra (Marc Lombard IRC 46), El Ocaso (J/122), Panacea X (Salona 45), Emily of Cowes (Elan 450) and an XP50. To serve, visit www.lvyachting.com or Email: chris.b@lvyachting.com

“Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or a novice looking to experience the thrill of racing, we have the perfect yacht for you. Our yachts range from high-performance Grand Prix racing yachts to comfortable Racer Cruisers, all maintained to the highest standards,” says Chris Bruty, LV Yachting’s marketing manager. “STIR is a great event. The regatta management is excellent, and the racing is amazing, taking you through rocks, cays, and cuts in the beautiful blue water and lovely scenery.”

For those who want to BYOB, or bring their own boat, Caribbean Regatta Logistics, owned and operated by St. Thomas native Ben Beer, can assist owners and teams in bringing their boats to race. Beer handles logistics for big international race teams that compete in the Caribbean such as Vesper, Prospector, Spookie, and all the 72s. (Tel: 340-998-6203; Email: benbeer13@gmail.com), Web: stthomasinternationalregatta.com/faq/caribbean-regatta-logistics/)

The STIR Website will be regularly updated regarding race charter opportunities.

Book Flights and Accommodations Now!

Hands down, STIR is the easiest to reach of all the Caribbean regattas. Host destination, St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands, welcomes direct flights on six major airlines from U.S. mainland gateway cities. These include:

● American Airlines (Charlotte, Dallas, Miami, New York)

● Delta (Atlanta, New York)

● Frontier (San Juan)

● JetBlue (Boston, San Juan)

● Spirit (Fort Lauderdale, Orlando)

● United (Chicago, Newark, Washington-Dulles)

Air Sunshine, Cape Air, Fly The Whale, Sea Flight, and SKYhigh Dominicana are airlines that operate within the Caribbean with service to St. Thomas.

Accommodations on St. Thomas include resorts, hotels, inns, bed and breakfasts, and timeshares. Plus, there are approximately 600 villa units and 200 charter yachts on St. Thomas/St. John. Airbnb listings number over 1,000 in St. Thomas. For more information about the U.S. Virgin Islands, visit: www.visitusvi.com

For more information, visit www.stthomasinternationalregatta.com, Email: manager@stthomasyachtclub.org or Regatta Co-Director Pat Bailey at simpleislandboy51@gmail.com, or call (340) 775-6320. Check STIR out on Facebook (www.facebook.com/stirvi), Twitter @stirvi, and Instagram #STIRVI

Reminiscing Fritz Seyfarth: A Tribute to a Caribbean Sailing Legend

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Back in the ‘70s, on the island of Conception in the Bahamas, we were the only boat in the anchorage. We swam naked. We made love on the foredeck. 

At night, we hugged our rum bottles and howled at the moon. 

The rest of the world faded. 

We had a world of our own—a watery Garden of Eden.

A week went by. Perhaps two. 

One afternoon, in search of conch, we took our dinghy a mile or so around the windward point. When we returned from our hunting/gathering, Tumbleweed had joined our ketch Carlotta in the anchorage.

No one was aboard. There was no dinghy lashed to her deck or trailing on a painter astern. Yet all her hatches were open. 

Her owner must be nearby—perhaps looking for lobster under the reef ledges to the west. The reason we’d been looking for conch was because we’d eaten too much lobster! 

The water in the Bahamas was gin-clear. It felt as if our boat wasn’t floating—that it was, instead, suspended eight feet over pure white sand. 

Conception is part of the National Park system of the Bahamas. It is, was, and might always be—uninhabited. And the particular cove in which we’d found a lee was seldom visited. 

Why?

Because it was protected by razor-sharp coral heads that were difficult to see against dark turtle grass. I’d carefully powered in with the sun high and over my shoulder—and twice almost came to grief.

Cruising Tales: The End of a Charter Skipper and his Gallant Lady

I’d heard the name Tumbleweed before—or did I have it cross-wired with a title of an old John Wayne movie?

She was a lovely old wooden boat—justified by time and King Neptune, as if she’d learned a lesson from each wave that had slapped her. 

Boats weren’t disgraced, back in the day, with crass nameplates nor other promotional branding. Knowledgeable sailors could spot the distinctive bow shape (apple-ish, in the area of the bobstay) of Alden, the chunky, slab-sided cabin houses of William Atkins, or the graceful joining/comingling of the toe rail, transom cap, and counter that made L. Francis Herreshoff’s transoms so harmonious. 

Strangely, Tumbleweed’s engine exhaust had been bunged with wood. Whoever owned her had sailed her in through the coral heads without an engine.

Happy Hour was just around the corner. Carolyn, my wife then and now, was already tossing around pots and pans in the galley—preparing to make conch fritters, laced conch, and sweet & sour conch. 

On an unrelated note, I once went to an eye, ear, nose, and throat doctor. I looked okay but he took his sweet time examining me, then asked, “…automobile accident?”

“Actually, it was an animated discussion with a dozen gang members atop Fort Hill in Boston. I thought I was cleverly winning the debate until they pulled out short sections of rebar.” 

“Ouch!” said the doctor.

Fritz in the Stocks
Fritz in the Stocks

My point is this: to an ordinary person, due to the miracle of modern medicine, I appeared normal. However, to an expert, it was obvious that my nose had been broken, my cheekbone fractured—and my left tear-duct crushed so badly that half my face turned yellow from its month-long oozing. 

I’m like this with boats. They speak to me—usually of their pain. Or their neglect. Or of their longing of the open sea. 

I snorkeled over to Tumbleweed to give her a closer look. I could sense her noble spirit. But it was also apparent to me that she’d recently suffered a terrible tragedy. 

To others, she was just an aging boat. To me, she was a tragic tale as yet untold. 

In her bow area, she had more Dutchmen (short planks) than the Hague. One side of her stem looked different than the other. Her rail cap had been replaced to port—not with matching ribbon-cut mahogany but with cheaper Miranti.

Parts of her rig—actually, all of it—was a mishmash of different manufacturers. Even the size of the clevis pins didn’t match. 

Her split rig had four spreaders—each different in shape, finish, and wood type. Some were, yes, Sitka spruce; but others were Douglas fir. 

Yes, something major had happened to Tumbleweed—something bad that had taken a determined-but-penniless wood butcher years to repair. 

…well, repair as best as they could with what they had—which was little or less.

Now the protocol here is interesting—two vessels in a deserted anchorage, each seeking solitude. Tumbleweed’s owner had done the right thing. He’d anchored as far away from Carlotta as possible. Thus, I didn’t immediately row over and start peppering him with questions like a Feeb (FBI agent). Instead, I rowed around the harbor with my glass-bottom bucket until I gradually/casually drifted within hailing distance as the sandy-haired, brown-as-a-coconut skipper tossed his string of reef fish and his Hawaiian spear aboard Tumbleweed’s aft deck. 

Cruising Tales: Breaking in a New Charter Skipper – Part One

He wasn’t a large man but he rippled with muscle—or, perhaps, it was his poverty that kept his abs so sculpted.  

“Howdy,” he said, and dipped his head in deference. I heard many things: West Texas, most clearly. Country. Grit. Hard work. And, again, tragedy sprinkled with pain. Oh, and an echo of reluctance—and fear, even—to be hurt again. And again. 

He wore his heart on his sleeve—which isn’t where he wanted it but where it resided and what-was-a-man-to do? 

“That mainmast is plenty forward, isn’t it?” I said, staying on safe ground—sticking with what I knew.

“All of Alden’s ketches are like that,” the man said, “And they balance beautifully I’m single-handing and—not only don’t I have a self-steering device—I don’t need one.”

“I grew up on one of John G’s designs,” I said. “The schooner Elizabeth. Design #213, sistership to Yvonne.” 

Suddenly, the man looked at me—really looked at me. 

Bonding by boats. It used to happen all the time when boats were as unique as their owners. 

His eyes were both watery and piercing—but there was something wrong with their tracking. (He was blind in one eye—which gave the impression he was looking through a person.) But there was also an earnest boyishness about him as well, a self-effacing modesty. That, and, incongruently, a steely-eyed determination. 

“You don’t say,” he dawdled, as if needing time to make a decision. 

Again, the twang of a barn struck my ear—faint reverberations of horses braying. Then he smiled—like warm sunlight spilling over a ridgeline. I took it as an invitation. 

“I got an Italian wife,” I said. “Loves to cook—especially for Texans. Care to come aboard for Sundowners?”

_________

The first Great Truth—or obvious incongruity—of Fritz Seyfarth was that he was the gentlest of men and that he rode bulls. Big bulls. Real bulls. He was a man of many talents—and an equal number of contradictions. Wildcatter of oil rigs. Petroleum engineer. Texas A&M graduate. Yacht racer. Friend. Sea gypsy. Charter boat skipper. Womanizer. Loner. Entrepreneur. And much, much more. 

Whenever Fritz glanced away, it was as if he was searching for a distant horizon—rooms ashore seemed too small to contain him.

But there was no swagger cloaking Fritz—only a shy self-awareness that, no matter how well Fritz rode the bulls of his life, they’d always throw him into the gutter. 

…always leave him broken, bleeding, and bewildered—yet, perversely, wanting more. 

A sliver of Texas nobility clung to Fritz. He was a man who kissed life full on the lips—despite getting repeatedly kicked in the teeth by it. 

When he was younger and sprier, sometimes he’d walk away from the bull. But increasingly as the years passed, he’d limp or crawl away—first to a chiropractor, then to the surgeon. Eventually, every time he rode a bull he broke a bone—until the last time when the damn bull broke so many bones that the doc ran out of adjectives to describe his injuries. 

“Sometimes in the middle of an offshore gale,” Fritz would joke, “when I’m trying to tuck a reef in and I lose my footing and come crashing down on the wet deck… well, I think to myself, ‘shit, this ain’t nutt’n! Not compared to that Last Bull!’”

I can’t remember the name of that Last Bull in Fritz’s life, but he sure could, and he’d often bring up the name with a shy, exasperated shake of his head. 

…dang life was confusing!

Life, especially life ashore, perplexed Fritz. There was a whiff of the hayseed about him but his bewilderment often translated into humor. Humor was his camouflage. He openly laughed so he didn’t privately cry. 

He had a million jokes, and he and his ‘don’t-fence-me-in’ mentality were the brunt of them all. 

Fritz was a handsome, soft-spoken, almost-growed-up cowboy who cried out for mothering—and potential mothers came forth in every port from San Diego to San Blas, from Trini to NYC. 

Fritz was never a kiss-and-tell guy but sometimes his good eye blazed in erotic remembrance. 

There was something dangerous and fleeting about him—like holding a firefly within your fist: if you can see its light, it flies away. 

And here’s a brutal truth: a sailor is a one-trick pony. They leave. That’s their sole trick. They sail away. And, at first, there’s a sense of relief for them; a sense they’ve escaped the velvet handcuffs of shore. But, in time, they remember the loose ends. The broken promises. The shattered shoreside dreams.

Fritz looked worried when he’d stare back at his frothing wake—and woulda’, coulda’, shoulda’s flooded his brain. 

He was a rough and roving cowboy with a too-sensitive conscience, always a bad combo. And like cowboys of yore, he didn’t want to be fenced in by some dirt dweller’s morality.

Offshore, there are no fences. 

…nor gossips, for that matter. 

But the main problem with Fritz wasn’t the things he actually did—it was the fact that he blamed himself for what he didn’t do as well. Think: silent cowboy with a tear in his eye. 

And, worse, Fritz thought that if he was just a better person—that his sins would somehow be washed away. 

Fritz ended up being about the most intriguing person I ever knew. And it stemmed from this lifelong, flickering internal conflict…the dark hidden secret that he wasn’t quite as good as he should be. 

No one is. And Fritz, as wise as he was, didn’t know that. 

Yes, there was a bit of the reclusive monk about Fritz (as there often is with singlehanders), as if he was atoning for a sin in a previous life. And, in a different person, this might have melded into total misery or the grumpy life of a hermit. But not with Fritz. He was a ragged survivor and wasn’t going to allow yesterday to ruin tomorrow. He mostly lived in the moment. And he continuously laughed—not at life nor at others; solely at himself. 

Everyone was daft—he only more so. 

And so, he hid and played peek-a-boo using his humor. On his eventual office wall would be a sign that read, “We’ve upped our literary standards—so up yours, pal!”

Of course, he became addicted early. Not to booze or drugs—to sailing. And soon he was skippering the foredeck of one of the most famous California racing yachts in San Diego. And he trained many young sailors on the setting and dousing of light air sails—even a young kid named Dennis the Menace of America’s Cup fame, who, at this point in Dennis’s youth, could still see his toes.

And, for a while, Fritz had it all—a prestigious job as a civil engineer, a loving wife, and two (equally handsome) sons. 

Then, one day at work, his boss asked Fritz what he wanted to do with his life. Cowboys aren’t just slow talkers—they’re slow to even begin speaking. They don’t use fill-words, they don’t beat around the bush. Their thoughts are like tumbleweeds blowing through lonesome canyons in their minds. But they think deep. And hard. And have very, very little pity for themselves. 

Fritz stared out the window at the oil-rig-strewn desert while deciding how to put what was in his heart into words. And, since it was complicated, he stepped outside to consider the question. And walked down a dusty road—away from the oil wells—to a backwater shipyard where he purchased the real love of his life… the built-in-1935, Alden-kissed, carvel-planked, ketch-rigged Tumbleweed. 

Now I have a confession to make, dear reader. I don’t sail around the world to tell others who I am—but rather to discover who they are. In a sense, my entire watery life has been spent sailing in the wake of my heroes. 

How can you become who you want to be if you can’t recognize those traits in others?

Let’s put it another way—without misfits and melancholies, I’d have no friends at all. 

As I listened to Fritz spin the yarns of his many voyages, I soon realized that Fritz was the sailor I wanted to be. 

And, over the course of the next 30 years, as I saw him interact with friends—so open-heartedly and yet shyly fragile—Fritz also became the man I wanted to be as well. 

Perhaps because he didn’t want to reveal anything about himself, he always asked about others. What did they need? How could he help?

Helping others—be they rich or poor—focused his mind.

The following evening in that fateful anchorage of our first meeting in the Bahamas—we had Fritz over for dinner. Fish, of course—with a conch appetizer and lobster for the main course. For drinks, we had lukewarm plasticky-tasting water—the drink of choice… er, of necessity for cruising sailors in the 1970s. 

Fritz was talking to Carolyn about something—and the book Tales of the Caribbean came up. 

“Did you read it?” I asked Fritz. 

“Many times,” he said, grinning

“Me too—and I loved it,” I said, still not catching on, “It was truly a Feast of Islands.” 

“Um,” said Carolyn, always the smarter, more-aware one, “He wrote it, Fatty.” 

“…you’re not THAT Fritz, are you?”

I was astounded. Sure, the boat’s name had rung a muted bell—but many do. 

Now, they say not to meet your heroes but this certainly wasn’t the case with Fritz. Not only was he open-and-willing to share his writing process—he was amazingly encouraging as well. 

“Don’t listen to anything about writing from a non-writer,” Fritz told me, “And then only to about half of what a writer says… make that a quarter of what most writers say!”

As a struggling wordsmith who’d dropped out of high school after failing sophomore English, his reassuring words were a breath of fresh air. 

I saw Fritz through fresh eyes—not just cowboy, man, and sailor—but as an established author as well. 

He was already the master of everything I aspired to. 

“It’s not about grammar or punctuation nor the wording of a query letter,” Fritz told me, “It’s about spinning a yarn. Ever told a story about one of your passages to a friend—and they really loved it? Well, if you can translate that story onto the printed page and translate it into prose, you can be a professional writer. Don’t allow anyone to tell you different. The idea isn’t to get everyone to love your stuff—only a few readers here-and-there will do. The world is a big bookstore, with word-of-mouth the best advertising. Your reader signs your paycheck—not the editor or publisher. But, you gotta get your stories out into the marketplace, you gotta give your writing the promotional labor it deserves. And a few readers in the Caribbean add up. Plus, some sailors in the Bahamas. And in Fort Liquordale. The Chesapeake. Maine, too!”

Listening to Fritz made it all seem do-able. 

…hell, he’d already done it! He was living proof. 

His advice wasn’t theoretical—it was practical and step-by-step. 

“Don’t be dismayed by rejection slips—they are just failing publishers too stupid to see the worth of your work! Next week, they’ll all be out of business, but a sailor with a pen pulsating with ink and a heart full of desire will never starve… be hungry, yes; starve no.” 

Here’s the truth—I glommed on to Fritz like a tossed ring buoy in a storm. No man, save for my father, ever taught me more in less time. 

Finally, Fritz said, as we hoisted anchor ten days later, “Look up Dyke and Inga of the Alden schooner Mandoo—wait a sec, on the Gallant 53 Zulu Warrior.” 

At the time, Dyke and Inga Wilmerding were the gold standard of the crewed chartering world. They’d chartered for more than 30 years in the Caribbean and made a million friends, four or five dollars—and not a single enemy. They both brimmed with warmth and a laidback charisma. 

“Fritz recently wrote us a letter from Georgetown, Great Exuma,” Inga said as I scrambled aboard, “And told us you were coming. Beer or Mount Gay & Coke?”

They soon introduced me to Peiter and Pat Stoeken of the CYS 44 Independence. Thus, within 24 hours of my arrival in the Virgins, I had two names that would open almost any door (or, more importantly, companionway) in the Lesser Antilles. 

Fritz soon showed up in Virgins aboard Tumbleweed. I became his sidekick. I spent months following him from cockpit to cockpit while he regaled his hosts with the story of his almost fatal collision offshore—and being too busy bailing to even get the name of the freighter that ran him down in the Bermuda Triangle. It had stopped—he assumed to rescue him—then sped away. (Eventually he was saved by a USCG vessel named, appropriately, Sagebrush. How cosmically-perfect is that!)

“The whole stem was smashed and twisted to starboard,” Fritz would say, “And I had to stuff a mattress in it immediately or I’d have sank within the first few minutes. The mainmast was gone and the mizzen badly damaged…” 

Or he’d tell hysterical stories of what a terrible charter skipper he’d been—always, somehow, managing to end up with the ‘guests from hell!’

“I had $300 when I left San Diego,” he’d say, “And considerably less when I arrived in the Virgins a couple of years later. 

I’d watch the faces of the listeners. 

Yes, Fritz could spin a sea yarn—and, ultimately, transfer his passion and lust for living onto the printed page. 

Could I do the same?

I went to Caribbean Boating to find out. They initially paid me between $5 and $10 per story—which made me a total sucker to most people and a ‘professional writer’ to myself. 

Often, owner Jim Long wouldn’t actually come up with the ten or fifteen bucks he paid me per week,  but would give me a list of advertisers who’d stopped paying him. 

“All you gotta do,” he’d tell me in a very reasonable tone, “is pistol-whip the money outta them!”

“Welcome to the literary world,” my wife would smirk. 

One grocery store paid me in dead fish—another refused and so I grabbed an armful of Planter’s Peanuts and fled. 

“First they pay you in dead fish,” my wife said, “And now you’re literally being paid peanuts!” 

“Ignore the nay-sayers,” Fritz would advise. “They aren’t writers—you are! I loved that story about you puking on the nuns—and the one before that about being arrested in Michigan with the twin blonds… both were genuine knee slappers!”

Fritz’s praise, coming from an established writer who made his living with his pen, was pivotal in my fledgling career. 

I kept spewing words—overcoming my lack of talent with sheer volume. My wife called my stories ‘homing pigeons’ because no matter where I’d send them in America—they always came straight back home.

Meanwhile, Fritz managed to charm his way into an office—just a tiny shack, really, on Marina Cay. From there he churned out six wonderful books, mostly about pirates. 

At one point, he was having difficulty shoving books out the door fast enough. So, he decided to hire a Tortola gal—a secretary—who came highly recommended. This gal could type, like, a million words a second! Fritz was wowed. “You’re hired,” he shouted. 

“Not so fast,” the girl said, “my grandmother needs me to take her to the hairdressers on Fridays. I can’t work on Fridays.” 

“Fine,” Fritz said. “Four days a week is fine.” 

“But,” said the gal, “my mother wants me to help her in the garden on Mondays—and my girlfriends always meet in Virgin Gorda on Thursdays.” 

Fritz was starting to get the idea. Still, he persisted. “Well, when can you work?”

“Wednesdays,” said the gal. 

“Okay,” said Fritz with a smile. “Wednesdays it is.” 

On Wednesday, the gal showed up as promised—but with an important question before she’d start work. 

“Every Wednesday?” she asked Fritz.

Fritz always told this story with admiration. 

He didn’t like to work to someone else’s schedule—why should Tortolians? 

He loved the Caribbean and its people, once telling me he’d ‘written another love letter to the Lesser Antilles’ when he came out with a new book. 

Best of all, he shared the step-by-step details of his literary successes with me on a weekly basis. 

We had him aboard Carlotta and Wild Card for dinner dozens of times. 

“Hell,” he’d say, “If a bull-addled, West Texas fool such as myself can get pennies to dribble out of his pen—so can you, Fatty!”

I followed Fritz’s advice nearly word-for-word. Lothar Simon of Sheridan House loved my Chasing the Horizon but I wisely turned him down and kept full rights by sending it to Russ Tate of Van Volumes instead. It was a move that ultimately made me a quarter of a million bucks I might not otherwise have… thanks to Fritz and his shy-but-accurate counsel.

We visited each other regularly and we both sailed our vessels in various local regattas. I’ll never forget the bizarre time in St. Bart’s when Tumbleweed came limping into Gustavia with no visible boot top. I immediately rowed over to help Fritz bail. 

Fritz was thigh-high in bilge water and floating floorboards but he graciously welcomed me aboard, gave me a cold Heineken, and told me to sit in the lotus position atop his (relatively) high icebox. 

Then he made small talk as he bailed his bilge water into the cockpit with a bucket. 

“Let me help,” I said. 

Fritz was a single-hander in every stubborn sense of the word—and refused. 

I was confused. It didn’t make sense to me. Fritz’s boat was still leaking badly from its garboard being strained during the race. WTF?

I jumped down and started to help without his permission. 

It was the only time Fritz ever got mad at me. 

He held up his gnarled hand for me to stop—then sternly bade me get back atop the ice box. By way of explanation he said, almost hissed, “It’s my water, Fatty.” 

Stubborn? Yes, absolutely—but it was the stubbornness of someone who carries their own water on all levels, and never demands someone else do so. 

By this point, Tumbleweed was rotting faster than a nearly penniless skipper could repair her. Her engine hadn’t run in a couple of decades. He’d “…placed the Black Shroud upon it,’ in his own words. 

Worse, in the mid-90s Tumbleweed was severely damaged by hurricanes Luis and Marilyn. 

Fritz ended up giving her to a young dreamer who took her to Coral Bay, St. John and almost immediately allowed her to sink. 

A part of Fritz died with Tumbleweed—his final desertion. 

But he soon managed to buy a horribly-blistered Valiant 40, a wonderful Bob Perry design. He began to make boyish, hopeful plans to singlehand offshore once again, but this time in a boat that didn’t have more leaks than the White House, more weeping holes than a spaghetti-strainer. 

There was a lot of Tom Sawyer in Fritz—a dreamer, yes; but a dreamer with determination and grit. 

His happiest period was when he was reunited (by a name discovered by happenstance in a dusty phonebook) with his two sons. He invited them aboard Tumbleweed and cruised the Virgins. And they reciprocated by flying him to America and showed him the Grand Canyon. 

If things went well in life—Fritz made light of them. If they went horribly astray, he made riotous sea-yarns of them. 

My favorite was when, in the mid 90s, he went to Goddard University to study under a best-selling literary novelist that he much admired. 

It was an expensive trip ashore—but worth it, Fritz was sure. 

The novelist, however, considered himself a Don Juan of considerable distinction—and spent all his class time attempting to seduce adoring female students. Worse, Fritz had one of his stories critiqued by a room full of uber feminists who didn’t take his old-fashioned, aw-shucks ideas on gender equality kindly. They savaged him. Fritz, of course, was too shy to point out (to the room full of the unpublished) that his pen had dripped money since before they were born—and that the particular story they’d castigated him for had sold to six different publications around the world.  

“Some days,” he told me later, “it’s best not to step ashore.” 

Alas—despite or because of his new Valiant 40—Fritz was dead-broke. So, he took a delivery job on Sirocco, a bright red go-fast that needed to get to Newport for the summer season. 

That night, on the eve of setting off on yet another ocean passage, the 69-year-old Fritz Seyfarth passed away silently while anchored off Caneel Bay, St. John, USVI. 

That morning, as I passed through Love City, one of the EMTs, a sailor, took me aside and broke the news. “Your buddy passed away during the night.” 

“My hero, you mean,” I said, after learning it was Fritz. 

Now the USVI has all the rules and regs of the US of A—and you can’t just carry off a dead body and do whatever. So, Fritz went to St. Thomas to ensure that no foul play was suspected. None was—his delicate hereditary heart condition was widely known. 

Now, the vast majority of Virgin Islanders aren’t rich. They have their own way of dealing with the dead, none of which requires money. Thus, Fritz was sort of ‘left out’ on the loading dock at a specific time—and a bunch of wonderful fishheads from Red Hook wrapped him in rusty anchor chains and rolled him up in an old sail—then stitched/lashed it all together. (Traditionally, the sail needle gets put through the nose of the dead sailor at the end… just to make sure. This part was, thankfully, left out since Fritz had an official death certificate.)

And then Pat and Peiter Stoeken—along with myself—made the sad journey out to the French Cap drop-off. We said some words—words too private to repeat in print. 

And we sent Fritz off on his final voyage down into the Deep Blue Sea. 

…honored. I was honored to see him off.

He was, and forever will be, my favorite cowboy. 

Every time I hear that Lyle Lovett cowboy song about a horse and a boat, I think of Fritz. 

And I am also grateful—grateful, at least in part, because I’ve become the salt-stained inkslinger Fritz encouraged me to be.  

Fair Winds, Fritz—fair winds. 

(For more on Fritz and some free book downloads, see Fritzseyfarth.com)

AkzoNobel’s Interlux Launches Innovative Marine Coatings – Pre-Kote Plus & Toplac Plus

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Introduction to AkzoNobel’s Interlux New Products

AkzoNobel’s Interlux Launches Premium Top-side System. Pre-Kote Plus and Toplac Plus are revolutionary tried and tested topside systems that are easy to apply and result in a long-lasting, high-gloss finish.

Enhanced UV Protection

Along with the easy application, Toplac Plus also has an enhanced UV package to improve the longevity of the coating in all regions, including the Caribbean.

Wide Range of Color Choices

There are currently 19 colors, with an additional five new North American- and Caribbean-only colors of Anthracite Gray, Boston Whaler Blue, Ice Blue, Sea Foam, and Sundown Buff, available in early 2024.

For more information, visit their website: www.interlux.com/en/us/